Not sure how much room you have left in your stand, but you could plumb the 2.5 into the sump exactly the way RC said, place a light on it, and have yourself a great frag tank! Also, you could attach suction cups to it and place it inside your display as a frag tray. It might be too big for that, but it's a thought. I had some leftover plexi, so I built a box out of it and use suction cups to hang it in my display when I need to mount a new frag that needs protection or tranquility. I agree that you shouldn't let that tank go to waste but sadly it's too small for a QT. If all else fails, go buy a Beta.
Tips for refugium!!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter mennazeher04
- Start date
I definately agree with Rc, I'm in the middle of settin up my tank and my 20 gal refugium is ALMOST exactly set up like that except that the refugium is going to be fed off a T and ball valve from the overflow line into the sump. I was also thinking that if your don't want to drill a hole in the tank you could always use a hose or something and drain the refuge by siphon just make sure the lowest point of your hose will still leave enough water in there and not siphon dry in the event of a power failure.
good to know, thanks. Wait now that I'm thinking about it can't you hard plumb it with pvc and in the line use a ball valve? thinking when I'd siphon my FW tank I'd squeeze the end of the tube to restict the flow. This is of course dependent on the fact that the ball valve doesn't let air in and break the sipohon. What do you think?
The problem is not that you can't adjust the flow, but you have no way to allow it to self adjust. What I mean is with a simple siphon, if the flow is faster than the input into the frag tank, then it will empty the tank until the siphon breaks, then the input will continue filling at it's slower rate. There is no way for the siphon to start again once it's broken so the tank will just fill until it overflows. If the siphon flows slower than the input then it will eventually overflow. The only way a siphon would work was if it's flow out exactly matched the flow coming into the tank which is pretty much impossible. You need a setup that allows more water than the pump could possibly pump to flow out and it has to be self adjusting to changing conditions. I built a system out of PVC that worked like a HOB overflow but it took up a lot of room and wasn't very efficient. I have come to the conclusion that drilling and allowing gravity to do it's thing is the best solution. My glass hole saw was the best purchase I ever tried to avoid making in this hobby.
AHHH I see said the blind man to the deaf man. :bowdown: I didn't think of that. Just trying to expand his options that's all. Also... where did you get your hole saw? I've looked all over hell and creation to find the thing and the industrial tool shop that had one wanted a 100 bucks for the friggin thing. The glass shop I took my 20 to had 1.5 holes and 2 inch holes. Went with 1.5 and had to go from a 1 inch baffle to a 3/4 inch baffle. :grumble:
Don't sweat it. I am just trying to help you and the others avoid the frustration of learning the hard way. I wish I had come here to get help with my original design. I would have been mopping a lot less in the beginning.
Yeah I too spent some time driving around in search of one only to be let down. I finally ordered one from ebay for about 40 and well worth it!
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