Fishsticks Custom 130Gallon Rimless, LED Build

Nice pump. That thing packs a LOT of power. Make sure you install a gate valve after it so you can dial it down. Also prepare for some low hum. I don't recall it being silent.
It's kinda personal preference and setup dependent.
Personally, I like to lean towards lower flow going through my sump and getting the majority of flow IN the tank from powerheads like my Vortechs. High flow through the sump can be once cause of microbubbles. I use the Eheim 1262 in my 130g which is rated at 900gph. It runs wide open. I think you're ok, but good you have the gate valve to tweak it.
Question for u all.
I have 1 1/2 return going from the tank to the sump. from the sump I have 1" to the pump. from the pump back to the tank I have 1" into reducer that makes it 3/4 and have a 3/4 Y to my 2 supply's n the tank is that ok? Hope I didn't lose anyone
It should be long as you have the gate valves on it like Dennis that you can control the amount of flow to and from the sump.
Yup, definitely gonna want a gate valve (with union) before the sump as well.
If the 1.5" drain is draining faster than your pump can pump it back up through the return pipes, you'll flood your sump.

Unions are helpful incase you need to remove the sump or pump from the system for maintenance, replacement, etc. So I would make sure there is one before and after the pump and before the sump. You don't need a gate valve before the pump, but any kind of shut off valve. Gates are more expensive and better for making small adjustments than a ball valve. But you dont want to restrict flow before the pump so a ball valve is fine there.
Last edited:
ok cool thank you all, i purchased a gatevalve and unions and i have some quick shut offs also... i will have a gatevalve on the exit side of the pump and a quick shut off on the entrance of the pump and one huge cut off on the sump side.
i now also noticed the bulk head entering my sump/fuge is 1"... so should i use that bulk head??? or just have the straight 1 1/2 pvc go into the filter sock??? or put a reducer at the end of the pvc down to 1".. the pic down below shows the bulk head above the sock, its 1"


From the pump to the sump i have 1" Union to 1" Compact Ballvalve to 1" bulkhead..
From the pump to the DT i have 1" Union to 1" Gatevalve to 1"to3/4" reducer to 3/4 insert fitting..

I have a label maker so i started labeling the switches, a quick photo to show u guys and gals the progress... i know i know im moving slow. :( :(



I just didn't that to my switch not long ago, it was a pain trying to remember what each of the 8 switches did when I'd need to turn something off.
i seen some pics of peoples set up down below, :shock::shock::shock:. i seen some terrible ones, people have to follow each wire just to find out what they power. i couldnt do that incase of an emergency i gotta know what to shut down. :D
im selling a panworld pump what a big disappointment. im going internal whats the best in the market.. quietest with very lil heat output.. help!
after a few weeks of work an no fun i finally got back to the tank, so here are some snaps of the tank and fuge that has given me alot of trouble. i will have power heads inside on the back glass.



i went with a rio i finally got ahold of the petstore owner an he showed me his tank . he said it wont last u as long as these other pumps, but it will be quieter. i didnt believe him until i actually visited his home and seen his tank in action. dead silent i think i was almost able to hear his fish swim. i also took d2's advice dont have alot of flow powering through ur sump/fuge its no good. so powerheads r being put in now. i am going with 2 vortechs
Last edited: