LED lighting Systems

[Bifferwine]

Corals tend to grow faster at low K ratings (10K) but appear more yellow and washed out. They tend to grow slower at high K ratings (14K to 20K), but their colors are more vivid and bright. So it's up to you to find a happy balance between growth and appearance.

 

[RIJohn]

Ok once again thanks Biff, do you have book out or something? Oh by the way the Chaeto you sent is getting HUGE!

So what if you mix and match and say you run six bulbs total 3 at 6k and 3 at 14k. You should in theory end up with vivid looking, fast growing corals?

 

[bjohanson1234]

not really because the light mixes together and changes color when different Kelvin bulbs are combined. In other words, the 6000K bulbs will yellow out the 14000K bulbs or the 14000K bulbs will blue up the 6000K bulbs. Producing something somewhere in the middle. It wouldnt be a 14000K coloring with the growth of a 6000K bulb. Sorry :)

 

[RIJohn]

Oh damn well it was worth a shot :)

So 10k would be the in between for what I posted above I guess.

 

[bjohanson1234]

The good thing about t5's is you have a large variety of bulbs to fine tune the look you want. I am currently running 2 420nm actinics, a 12000K and a 6700K. Had two 12000K was very blue. Was going to wait but one of the bulbs went out early and the LFS only had the 6700K instock. But needed to replace the bulb. I think the next time I will go with the 2 actinics, a 12000K and a 10000K. I think it will be a nice balance

 

[RIJohn]

Well right now my setup is 2 250wMH 14k and 2 actinics, do noticed any blue except for when just the actinics are on

 

[Bifferwine]

Ok once again thanks Biff, do you have book out or something? Oh by the way the Chaeto you sent is getting HUGE!

No, no book! But that's great about the chaeto. It means it's sucking up nutrients that would otherwise be building up in your tank.

 

[RIJohn]

No, no book! But that's great about the chaeto. It means it's sucking up nutrients that would otherwise be building up in your tank.

Well maybe you should you kinda make me feel bad. :(

Everytime I ask something you always answer and I feel I am taking some of your life away.

 

[Bifferwine]

Pathetic as it sounds, this is my life. :(

 

[RIJohn]

Pathetic as it sounds, this is my life. :(

Well thanks :bowdown: I do appreciate your input and help greatly. At least you not trying to sell me anything everytime I have a question.

 

[reeffreak]

I do like to say for anybody running T5 systems to dump all actinics(420nm,430nm,460nm) bulbs for ATI blue plus bulbs.They put out the highest PAR readings of all T5 bulbs even the daylight bulbs.More useable light for corals and still give you a balance look.

At least do it when it comes time to replace the bulbs.

 

[Gigaah]

LED light spectrum distribution is pretty different. Those evil par 38's are approximatly the strength of MH 250 if you have them focused onto a 1sqft area of tank bed.

White LED's are from even 5000k have a very strong blue compenent to them and are effectively blue LED's that are modified with phosphors to add other colors to the blue and make white.

I'm currently building a pretty fancy LED lighting system. I pretty much attempted to mimic MH light output so they are not just your basic white/blue build.

I attached a graph showing the approximate spectrum of various ranges of white LED.

LED's DO in fact generate heat. But the heat is generated at the back of the led and is carried into the heatsink. It is not radiated down into the water particularly.

If you have any questions post. I've learned a great deal about LED lights. fyi LED's do lack a good affordable Actinic solution currently. Not to say you cannot get them or do it at a reasonable price for a lot of work. but its either expensive..or a great deal of work.(I went for a great deal of work in my situation).

 

[reeffreak]

Can you do a build thread(or have you already) in the DIY section Gigaah?

 

[Gigaah]

Once my stuff gets here(from china of course) I'll do a build thread.