Want a new tank? 145 gal system build, I need help!!

[BL1]

Check valves are to keep water from back flowing into the pump, you want a ball valve to adjust the flow rate from the pump.

 

[marcah]

sorry, ball valve ..only had one sip of coffee so far.. not up yet lol

 

[benry]

ok thank you! and that based off the display, so exactly 900 gph is ideal... So i get an overflow rated for 1200 gph and control the accual flow with a valve. then get a return pump rated for 1200 Gph at about 6' head. and also control that with a valve. then i can increase or decrease the flow with the valves... I think i get it!!! :-)

 

[Bifferwine]

You won't control the flow of the overflow with a valve. The overflow is controlled by the return pump -- it can only move as much water as the return pump is pushing back. You will need a valve to control that though.

 

[benry]

OH!!!!!! I see... well now that just makes sense doesn't it...

 

[benry]

so at 6 feet a mag 12 runs 950 gph, and a mag 18 runs 1125 gph. so i should go with the mag 18? it will match the overflow really well and i can just back off the extra flow.

 

[Bifferwine]

Yes, go with the stronger one. You will control it with a ball valve if needed. It's easy to turn down a pump if it's running too strong -- there's no way to make a smaller pump run stronger.

 

[benry]

ok, thanks a lot, i am having one hell of a time staining this project but as soon as i get the trim done and put together i will have a picture of the stand. I will be ordering the overflow and return pump on payday so i can begin to build the plumping and the canopy. I have never done any plumping in my life so i may have some questions, however i have a friend that may be able to help my with it.

 

[benry]

Now we are finally getting somewhere!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I feel like i have been working on this stand for half my life and im finally happy with the results! All i have do do for the stand is hang the doors on hinges and use new trim around the tank because i can still see the artificial wood laminate.

Is this weld on crap really reef safe?? I used some to repair my baffle but i cant believe is reaks so bad!!!

 

[Bifferwine]

The stand looks great! The Weld-On is safe, when it hardens/dries!

 

[benry]

Thanks! so here is a picture of the broken center brace of my tank... My question is how much pressure is this applying to the glass? My plan to solve the problem is to cut a notch into 2"x8"s and build a rectangle around the tank. the notch would be 1/2"x2" so the rectangle sits right one the tank with a 1"x2" lip that would hang down the reinforce the broken brace. Does that make sence? will it be strong enough?

 

[benry]

one more problem... then i have good news. Bad news is the tank doesn't sit perfefctly on the stand, im don't know it i should put a shim under the plywood, or get something to put under the tank?

The good news is its done! I have minor adjustments to make for plumbing, i got my mag 18 yesterday and ordered my lifereef overflow box. The box may take up to 2 months because it has to be able to fit over the canopy.

 

[Bifferwine]

Do you need to shim the stand? Or the tank? It's okay to shim the stand -- mine is shimmed to make the tank level.

 

[little_fish]

Wow! You did an amazing job with that!

 

[benry]

Do you need to shim the stand? Or the tank? It's okay to shim the stand -- mine is shimmed to make the tank level.

I think the stand is level overall. but where the tank sits on the stand the front left corner is slightly suspended, i know that could possibly cause the tank to break. i should be able to shove a shim between the plywood surface and the frame. i am kinda worried that might creat a pressure point though.. Any thoughts?

 

[benry]

Wow! You did an amazing job with that!

Thank You! i was honestly not sure when i started this project if i would finish it. Ive never done something like that before.

 

[Bifferwine]

I would try to support that corner somehow... Can you take a picture of the area you are talking about?

 

[benry]

I think the weigh would accually push the plywood down to where its supposed to be but i don't want to take any chances. i could easily slip a shim under that surface and push it up to the tank but im afraid that would just cause a different pressure point.

 

[marcah]

I think you are absolutely correct it may cause another pressure point .. I think the stand is going to be the key in leveling it up.. looking at the pic more, that isnt to much af a gap you might actually see the top compress that much to drop the gap with the weight of the tank filled... could do a trial run with some water and see if it compresses as it fills...

 

[benry]

I had two friends apply pressure to the hood at the corners that were suspended until they touched the surface, im pretty confident that it isn't going to cause me much trouble... now i am waiting for the overflow to arrive, i don't even want to drill holes for the plumping until it gets here and i can see exactly where to put them, it could take up to two months. i guess i should of done that 2 months ago... whoops.

I am going to start rebuilding my sump here soon and i am second guessing my original plan... i will be back with some questions and a new plan...

I have also been thinking about lighting, I want to buy a light system with timers and everything built in that i can set just inside, or rest, on the hood. What is the ideal distance the lights should be from the water surface?
This is the light system i have been thinking about, and trying to save for...
48 in. AquaticLife HID/T5/Lunar LED Fixture - 2 x 150W HID - 2 x 54W T5 - 4 LEDs | Metal Halide Lighting | Lighting Systems | Aquarium - ThatPetPlace.com