parrotchute
DUSTOFF MEDEVAC
- Location
- Ware, MA
I've got a lot of GSP which is really helping outcompete algae, too...
Waging a war with hair algae...
- Thread starter bigploch
- Start date
caulepura wont go A sexual if you leave to lights on 24/7
bigploch
Fan of Water
- Location
- Harrisburg, PA
Well thanks to zoot098 we jumped in with both feet and pulled all rocks and scrubbed the all completely. I am attaching both before and after pics. I removed a 5 gallon bucket of rocks and another 5 gallon bucket of sand. I think a lack of flow had alot to do with the algae. Here is the before and after.
I don't have real high hopes. I have the algae scrubber working but it needs new bulbs. I am currently planning a refugium which may replace the scrubber but I am not sure yet. A new protein skimmer is in order but I have not made any decisions. The pics don't do the algae problem justice. I reached in to pick up rocks and was pulling out HANDFULS of algae. Crazy. The utility sink of saltwater we were using to scrub the rocks looked like hairy chocolate milk. Nasty. Oh well, it's done. we will see what happens.
I don't have real high hopes. I have the algae scrubber working but it needs new bulbs. I am currently planning a refugium which may replace the scrubber but I am not sure yet. A new protein skimmer is in order but I have not made any decisions. The pics don't do the algae problem justice. I reached in to pick up rocks and was pulling out HANDFULS of algae. Crazy. The utility sink of saltwater we were using to scrub the rocks looked like hairy chocolate milk. Nasty. Oh well, it's done. we will see what happens.
yote
In Memoriam
That is a HUGE difference.And the manual removal should help keep it in check.
sen5241b
Reef enthusiast
- Location
- Arlington VA
Read this whole thread and there was never much discussion of nitrates and phosphates. What were these parameters at when the whole thing started and what are they now? If they're high I would say you'll be fighting hair algae forever. Fuges with lots of chaeto, stocking low and good skimmers will get trates down.
bigploch
Fan of Water
- Location
- Harrisburg, PA
trites and trates were always at undetectable levels. I have had baffled experts and newbs alike with this one.
sen5241b
Reef enthusiast
- Location
- Arlington VA
I asume phosphates were zero too. Phosphates alone have been known to fuel algae growth. I recently read that algae can grown in zero nitrate-phosphate systems becuase there is nitrate/phosphate producing crud in the rock. I have this problem with some small amount of Bryopsis algae growing out of one rock in my system and --yes-- the nitrates and phosphates are both at zero. May I suggest you look at your rock very carefully and see how much crud is in the holes and crevices. I know you scrubbed it but maybe the stuff is deeper. Try poking the holes with a thin screwdriver or probe and see if crud comes floating out. Maybe the rock itself has some silicates embedded in its matrix (a wild guess).
Also,if the problem is that bad, its possible your tests are wrong. I would take your water to someone who can test with instruments.
Also,if the problem is that bad, its possible your tests are wrong. I would take your water to someone who can test with instruments.
bigploch
Fan of Water
- Location
- Harrisburg, PA
I have compared my tests with others and had the lfs test the water for trites and trates. They all confirmed my tests. I would really like to find someone with a photometer to test my phosphates. I toyed with the idea of buying one but they are quite expensive.
yote
In Memoriam
JMO
But I think a photometer would be about the reliable way to check for phosphates.
Any kind of algae at all will keep the regular kits from picking up on phosphates.Not to mention,the kits only read the inorganic phosphates.Not the organic kind that comes from fish food and fish :pooh:
But I think a photometer would be about the reliable way to check for phosphates.
Any kind of algae at all will keep the regular kits from picking up on phosphates.Not to mention,the kits only read the inorganic phosphates.Not the organic kind that comes from fish food and fish :pooh:
daugherty
part time reefer
- Location
- Billings, MT USA
right on yote the test kits we can get are just not make for testing what we need them to test for unless you get a photometer. even then alage absorbs nutrients very very quickly
bigploch
Fan of Water
- Location
- Harrisburg, PA
so does anyone have one they can recommend? or do we all just wing it or use our LFS?
fishsticks
No clue about reefs
- Location
- los angeles, CA
i had the same problem with my tank, nitrates low, no phosphates. the algae was fueling itself. at one point u had phosphates but after you noticed the hair algae coming in im sure u did alot to try an improve water conditions but it was too late. mine were at .5 but if hair algae starts to grow an u dont attack it at first signs it will start to feed it self, it traps everything within it an feeds off it. fish doodoo, food, etc... my perams were great but it kept growing until i got a seahare which ate away at the roots u can say, an it never came back it gave it no chance of feeding itself. thats how i figured it grew.
daugherty
part time reefer
- Location
- Billings, MT USA
this is what you need to get the best test possible but they are spendy thats why i dont have one
Aquarium Photometers & Water Testing: Hanna Phosphate Photometers
Aquarium Photometers & Water Testing: Hanna Phosphate Photometers
sen5241b
Reef enthusiast
- Location
- Arlington VA
According to Dr. Ron Shimek, an expert on inverts and corals, phosphates are the worst enemy of corals --worse than nitrates and that is why if you have a big reef tank you really need one of these. What I don't understand is the difference between the low and high range testers. Do you need both ?
yote
In Memoriam
IF you'll pat attention to your corals.They'll let you know when somethings not right.,ie,,phosphates.
Thats why I havnt spent the money on a photometer.But I also spend at least 2 hours every evening messing with my tank.
Thats why I havnt spent the money on a photometer.But I also spend at least 2 hours every evening messing with my tank.
Bifferwine
I am a girl
- Location
- Lynnwood, WA and missing Tucson, AZ
No. If your phosphates are low, you only need the low range. The low range will usually only go up to 1 or so. So, if your phosphates are above 1, you would need the high range test.
bigploch
Fan of Water
- Location
- Harrisburg, PA
Yote, my corals typically look really good. They are not growing as fast as I would like but they have good color and show no signs of decline. On the other hand, my hair algae was growing like crazy, and that requires phosphates, so your statement seems counter-intuitive. Not trying to be smart, but how can my corals look "good" which requires low levels of phosphates, and my hair algae grow fast which is a sign of higher levels of phosphates at the same time?
bigploch
Fan of Water
- Location
- Harrisburg, PA
How could you determine your phosphate levels (if test kits are proven to be worthless) to determine which photometer to get?
sen5241b
Reef enthusiast
- Location
- Arlington VA
If you have money for only one, get the low range and use a chemical test for higher levels of phosphates(?)
