Supply List
- Thread starter LoveJC03
- Start date
little_fish
Reef pro
- Location
- ABQ, NM
youre welcome, thats my job :D
So.. just a 750 or should I get 2 550's? Lol.. sorry, I'm just trying to learn everything that I need to know.
Waddi
Shenanigans?
- Location
- NS, Canada
I would have one of each,
1x750GPH
1x550GPH
1x750GPH
1x550GPH
Yeah, what little fish said. Avoid petco like the PLAGUE. Resist the urge to want to 'save' their livestock. Some of their equipment and things are otherwise ok.
As far as cleaners, reefcleaners.org is all you really need. Just pick up one of their packages according to the gallon size in your tank.
This will help some:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UwRvd5kS4wY&feature=player_profilepage[/ame]
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Thanks. We do have a salt water fish store that we're gonna check out. Don't really wanna order any live things :)
little_fish
Reef pro
- Location
- ABQ, NM
A decent filter will be your skimmer and water changes, no need for anything more than that. And the skimmer isnt totally necessary either. But a good brand are the reef octopus or hydro skimmers. Make sure you get a skimmer that is rated for twice your total water volume.
I would look for 4 or 6 bulb t5 fixture for your tank, that will allow you to keep anything you wish. Make sure that they have individual reflectors for each bulb.
I would look for 4 or 6 bulb t5 fixture for your tank, that will allow you to keep anything you wish. Make sure that they have individual reflectors for each bulb.
Waddi
Shenanigans?
- Location
- NS, Canada
So, do you know of any decent filters? Are there any for $50 or less? Don't really wanna have to spend a whole lot.
With everything that we've got on our list just to set up and cycle our tank, including live rock is about $300. We still need to find lights too..and a stand..fish..corals..etc!
lol.. sorry, I'm someone who likes to do lots of research.
Well that was sorta my bad.. just realized I already asked that before :frustrat:
I honestly believe you can't get a decent protein skimmer for less than $125. The Hydor Slim Skim is probably your best bet without a sump, and that's $130+.
You're probably better off just keeping up with water changes every week, using the best water you can. Your live rock is your natural filter, and with enough live rock and water changes, you should be fine. Just stay on top of it, and if you can't afford a skimmer, skip it. You're probably better off investing in an RO/DI unit instead.
As the saying somehow goes, you're not keeping fish, you're keeping water. Keep the water quality in check, and everything else will fall into place.
A proper RO/DI will be one of your best investments, but figure on that being over $100 too.
You're probably better off just keeping up with water changes every week, using the best water you can. Your live rock is your natural filter, and with enough live rock and water changes, you should be fine. Just stay on top of it, and if you can't afford a skimmer, skip it. You're probably better off investing in an RO/DI unit instead.
As the saying somehow goes, you're not keeping fish, you're keeping water. Keep the water quality in check, and everything else will fall into place.
A proper RO/DI will be one of your best investments, but figure on that being over $100 too.
little_fish
Reef pro
- Location
- ABQ, NM
+1 Zissou
Hydor Slim Skim Protein Skimmer - HY00772 - AquaBuys.com is this the right one? With a skimmer we don't have to worry about wkly water changes, right? We've looked up the RO/DI and I think we'd rather just do a skimmer. :) Better safe than sorry... might as well spend the 130 or whatever then have to do more hard work!
Waddi
Shenanigans?
- Location
- NS, Canada
Yep thats the one, but just remember, check the measurements, i have that in my 32, and its a tight squeeze.
So.. that's perfect for our tank right? I have been doing SO much research in the past few days, I'd love to just cross skimmers off the list :shock:
You will still have to do water changes. Water changes replenish things such as calcium and other minerals, and physically removes nitrates, ammonia/poison and other contaminates. A skimmer only removes physical things such as uneaten food and waste, so that it doesn't break down in the water column and turn into nitrates or phosphates.
Water changes are simple once you do them a couple of times, and protein skimmers can be a pita by themselves. They're not an end all solution; there are very few shortcuts in this hobby, and water is NOT one of them. You cannot skimp on water quality, 90% of your problems will stem from poor water. Algae outbreaks, cyano, dinos, phosphates, slow coral growth, etc.
Water changes are simple once you do them a couple of times, and protein skimmers can be a pita by themselves. They're not an end all solution; there are very few shortcuts in this hobby, and water is NOT one of them. You cannot skimp on water quality, 90% of your problems will stem from poor water. Algae outbreaks, cyano, dinos, phosphates, slow coral growth, etc.
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I looked up how to do water changes.. To change the water, disconnect all power to your tank. Then, remove and clean the cover glass and clean any other glass panels that need cleaned. Siphon at least 10 percent of the water out of the tank and into a bucket, and rinse any filter media in the bucket. At this time you should clean and rinse any pumps, hoses, or other attachments using aquarium water, and clean "salt creep" from the top edges of aquarium. Using a commercial salt mix and dechlorinated tap water, mix a batch of new salt water. Once you’ve made sure the temperature and salinity of the new water match that of the current aquarium water, you can slowly add the replacement water into the tank. Finally, turn the power back on and return the cover glass.
How do I dechlorinate our tap water? Is it better to use distilled water from the store?
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little_fish
Reef pro
- Location
- ABQ, NM
+1 Zissou
Those instructions are mostly right, but I don't know anyone who takes any of their equipment out ('pumps, hoses, attachments') and washes them with each water change. I also wouldn't mix your saltwater during the water change, but do it the night before.
You want to stay as consistent as possible. So if you have a day off each week, that's perfect.
Typically, you'll come home from your last day of work, and start mixing saltwater.
:):):):):):):)
MIXING SALTWATER:
1) Buy 5 gallons distilled water from store, bring it home. Pour into bucket.
If you have a RODI: put end of RODI line into bucket, waste line (into washing machine or other drain), wait up to two hours til 5 gallons of RODI water is made, depending on how much GPD your unit makes. (check often, you don't want a flood).
2) After bucket is filled, add cheap powerhead (maxijet recommended) and heater, and plug them in. Measure out salt, pour it slowly into the current. Lay a lid on top, and forget about it for several hours. Perhaps overnight.
3) Next day, after 12 to 24 hours: Check salinity with refractometer, you're looking for 1.024 to 1.026. Check temperature and make sure it's within range. If both of those are good, you're ready to do a water change.
WATER CHANGE:
1) Top off any evaporation with freshwater in tank. If it's a large amount, wait a bit for water to 'mix', and check salinity. Make sure it's within the range of the bucket and vice versa.
2) Even though you may have used a magfloat throughout the week, some stuff may still stick to your glass, or coralline might be growing where you don't want it to. Magfloat the loose stuff, then get in there with a razor blade (glass tanks only!) and scrape off any coralline or stubborn algae. Be gentle, never 'run' the razor along it's edge. You're essentially shaving the tank like you would your face, you're scraping. You would never run the razor down your face would you? Once front glass is clean, determine if you want to do the sides, or even back. If you don't mind how they look, skip them. I recommend at least magfloating them to remove algae, but you may like the coralline that's growing there. Wipe off any dust or salt creep. If your lights have a plastic or glass cover and it's dirty, remove the light and wipe it down. Otherwise, leave alone. Time for the actual water change.
3) A switch from american DJ [ame="http://www.amazon.com/American-DJ-PC-100A-Channel-Lighted/dp/B0002GL50Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1313698696&sr=8-1"]Amazon.com: American DJ PC-100A 8 Channel Power Strip with Lighted Toggles: Musical Instruments[/ame] will make shutting things off very easy. I forgot who recommend these but it's much better than having to unplug things. Shut off any pumps, powerheads, and skimmer, if they'll be above the water line (ie sucking air) when the 5 gallons are removed.
If you have a sump, shut off the return pump. Wait til water drains and levels in sump equalize. Turn off any powerheads above the expected water line. Heater and skimmer can remain on since they'll be in the sump filled with water.
4) Once things are shut down, grab an empty bucket and your siphon or 'gravel cleaner'. Put the hose into the bucket and make sure it doesn't fall out as your starting the siphon. If you have the right kind of siphon, starting a siphon will only take seconds.
5) Siphon water from tank, make sure you don't suck up any animals. If there is lose material on the sand, suck it up, but be careful not to disturb the sand too much. Suck up anything you may have knocked off the glass, or any obvious particles drifting in the water. Fill up bucket, stop siphon. Done.
6) Unplug heater and powerhead and remove from your freshly made saltwater in bucket. You can either scoop the new water with a jug and slowly pour it into the main tank, or you can attach a hose to the powerhead and pump it back in. A small powerhead will not be strong enough for this, so you'll probably have to use a jug or large cup.
7) Turn everything on. Check fish/coral reaction. After a couple of hours, check salinity to make sure it's where it needs to be. Enjoy tank.
:):):):):):):)
It reads more complicated than it actually is, but it's super easy after the first time. Then you can read it like this:
1) Top off any evaporation in main tank.
2) Mix saltwater.
3) Wait 12 to 24 hours, check temp and salinity.
4) Clean glass. Scrub what you need to.
5) Shutoff equipment.
6) Siphon water from tank. Replace with new saltwater.
7) Turn on equipment. Make sure powerheads start. (koralias are known to get 'stuck', and may need to be knocked or poked til they spin).
8) Enjoy. Check salinity and temp after few hours to make sure everything is well.
9) Forget about water change til next week.
Daily maintenance is just feeding your fish, magfloating the glass if you need to, and topping off any excess evaporation. Keeping up with evaporation will be one of your biggest challenges, hence the reason why you want a good RODI unit on hand, to make and STORE water. A lot of us have 32 gallon brute trash cans filled with freshwater to keep on hand, for evaporation, or emergency water changes. Having a source of clean water at all times is crucial.
Yes, you CAN do everything with tap water. Some people here use tap water, and if you live in a clean area, it might be OK. But most tap water often has contaminants such as silicates, phosphates and metals. If you have copper piping in your house, copper is FATAL to inverts, and you don't want to expose them. Any copper that gets into your tank will make a permanent residence in your rock and sand. If you want to keep anemones, corals, and inverts, it's best to ignore tap water altogether and invest in an RODI unit. This is healthier for your fish as well.
Sorry, I know it's a lot to read, but it won't seem as complicated once you do it the first time. Don't be put off by it, it really isn't a lot of work.
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