Hi, I'm new

Aaaah...i see
ok point noted...no wonder the two fellas disappeared out of a sudden...they are alive though...wont do this crazy :pooh: again

The cromis/damselfish i have is Chrysiptera parasema...to wat i can id...one is blue ad the other purplish :shock:
Heard tat they can be kept in a small group...
Planning to up the number to 6 along with 6 green cromis
Opting for 4 C.auriga, lanulus and 2 vagabundus later on
Curious on how many pcs of fish can i have in my tub ?
 
I've added some of the fishes into the tank already. Looks good.
Having 2 tangs now...A.japonicus and the other is suspected to be A.pyroferus...and am now contemplating on A.leucosternon...(powder brown,powder gray and powder blue)
I dont know if the name still applies coz i'm referin to TFH book.
Just wanna know if they would fight in my 7ft tub ? If its a recipe for disaster, please let me know so i dun jump into it.

Oh and by the way...I have a pair of "Japanese Swallow Tail Angels" which i dont know wats their scientific name are, happened to be great fishes :mrgreen: I love them...thinking of adding more females. They get along very well and their simple coloration is very nice too...

Will try to post some pictures...If i can persuade the fishes to stand still long enough :grumble:
 
You should really consider adding fish a little slower to let your bacteria catch up to your bioload. Your tangs will probably fight like crazy due to being of the same shape and family.

I LOVE the Swallow Tailed Angels. Some of my favorites!
 
I also agree, add one fish every 2 or 3 weeks. Any faster, and you risk spiking your water parameters and poisoning your fish.
 
Bifferwine said:
I also agree, add one fish every 2 or 3 weeks. Any faster, and you risk spiking your water parameters and poisoning your fish.
Click to expand...

not to take this off topic, but one simple question. Does this apply to say 3-5 pajama cardinals? It would seem to me adding them is the same as adding a larger tang or something, am I wrong?
 
It does depend on the size of the fish. Also, some fish need to be introduced together to increase the chance that they'll get along. For solitary fish though, one at a time is safest.
 
Are they swimming up too and scratching them selves on rocks, corners and such? If so, that is a typical sign of their being bothered by parasites, Ick being the most common. This itching, if caused by Ick, would be accompanied by white little bumps on the fish. With a concrete tank you could not use the most typical medication which is copper, as it would be absorbed by your concrete tank. Hypo salinity would be a good option. But this talk is a little a head of it self. First we need you to better describe "itch." Second we would need to know if there are any spots, marks or bumps on the fish that are itching. In particular are there white/bumps on those fish?
 
Erm...i dont see any spots or bumps on the body...
They just seem to rub themselves on the sand and rocks...
Tats all i see them do...:shock:
 
Out of sheer stuborness, i got a leucosternon(well i guess i couldnt help myself watchin the blue fish swimmin around)...and now theres war in the tank :mrgreen: with my japonicus...so i'm plannin to sell the japonicus out...
Was thinking if its possible to house two of them in peace together...? or keep a school of leucosternons :12:
 
Leucosternons are powder blue tangs. If you try to keep more than one they will probably fight to the death. If it is already fighting with your other fish, it's unlikely that they will get along.
 
How bout if i had 6-8 leucosternons in the same tank...wondering if they would be as aggressive ?

Would the pyroferus get along with the orange shoulder ?
 
I wish i had self control :frustrat:
I've gotta stop buying...

Now theres a yellowish tinge to the water...issit crap ?
3 of my fishes has this lil bump on their skin...the foxface has one on its forehead...the tomato has quite a number on its body and my swallowtail angel has one on his cheek spike...i'm sweating now
Are those parasites ? or ich ? Coz my tangs look perfectly well except the powder blue which seem to lack coloration most of the time...the tomini and pyroferus looks normal.

A week ago my dad tossed in a tiger prawn into the tub without telling me...it died and nuked the water parameters :frustrat: After tat the pyro had some serious skin infection...red sores...but now its back to normal...clear skin
 
The yellowish tinge is probably bad. Are you doing regular water changes? You should change 10 to 20% of the water every week. With the amount of fish that you have, I'd aim high, for 20%. The bumps sounds like some sort of disease or parasite, but I can't say for sure without seeing a picture.

If you get some garlic extract and soak the fish food in it before feeding, the garlic will help boost the fishes' immune systems.
 
Australis said:
3 of my fishes has this lil bump on their skin...the foxface has one on its forehead...the tomato has quite a number on its body and my swallowtail angel has one on his cheek spike...i'm sweating now
Are those parasites ? or ich ?
A week ago my dad tossed in a tiger prawn into the tub without telling me...it died and nuked the water parameters :frustrat: After tat the pyro had some serious skin infection...red sores...but now its back to normal...clear skin
Click to expand...
:bounce: Hyposalinity treatment is a good effective treatment for Ich and most other parasites, and can be used easily in your concrete tnak with out worry about absorption as would be a problem with nearly all other treatments.
Hyposalinity Quarantine

Hyposalinity therapy at 16ppt or less, as outlined by Dr. Edward J. Noga (author of the book “Fish Disease Diagnosis and Treatment”), is a highly effective treatment for Cryptocaryon irritans (saltwater Ich). By maintaining a salinity of 14 to 16ppt for a minimum of three weeks this parasite can be eradicated. Although knowledge of this treatment is not widespread among marine aquarists it is rapidly beginning to gain acceptance.
This style of quarantine should contain a sponge or bio-wheel for circulation and biological filtration. A heater, thermometer, PVC pipe, cover and light should be provided. The only real difference between the hyposaline and combination style quarantine is the salinity. As with the combination style quarantine, fish are not usually medicated unless they exhibit symptoms of disease.
Fish are treated for some types of parasite infection without the use of drugs or copper (copper is a known immunosuppressive). There is evidence that fish may be able to more easily cope with some stressors in hyposaline water. The fish can be fed normally because this style quarantine has a biological filter, helping them regain strength. The water quality can easily be maintained with carbon or Poly Filter™ while therapy is ongoing. When using chemicals the carbon or Poly Filter must be removed. The disadvantages of this method is that some parasite infections that are less commonly encountered by hobbyists are not effectively treated with hyposalinity, and the alkalinity must be closely monitored. :^:
 
I am tryin to drop the salinity level...i have no idea how it could get to .022
Added at least 30L of freshwater at the front of the powerhead...and now the salinity is at .021
Could dead fish lead to higher levels ???

Water coloration with yellow tinge...just found out...tat was coz by my porch lighting :mrgreen: oooops

All the fish are well...except for the 4 chromis i got the other day...i still dont see them...wonder what happened to them. xanthometapon, navarchus and juvie imperator chillin out now and eatin...pyroferus, leucosternon, tomini, veliferum eatin algae pellets...well all looks fine

The lil bumps are still there...? can cleaner shrimps help ??? or will they get eaten in my tank ? coz my xanto is around 5 inches...(got it for 50bux and eatin well)

Fanned the water and now the temp is at 26C...
Issit ok to rearrange my rocks ?

thanks alot guys :mrgreen:
 
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