age old sump wont fit problem

Damseluver

Reefing newb
I keep changing my mind and know thinking I want a sump and fuge on the new tank. Common problem here; cant fit sump through front door of stand. Ten gal tank(s) will fit but ones not enough.

Here is what I came up with and am wondering if there are potential problems with this configuration not ever having to do something like this before. I have built many sumps but never any thing like this.

Using one inch bulk heads drill holes directly across from each other to allow flow. Unions for attaching/unattaching tanks after they are placed in stand and possibly ballvalves here also.

Lower on the skimmer and possibly the fuge tank use and additional two bulk heads to provide for a gravity feed emptying of these to use for water changes. Hose can be attached here to direct water out door of house.

Plan to use a filter sock where water enters return tank to trap any micro bubbles able to make there way from fuge to return tank or could glue baffles in return tank. Probably will use a PH in fuge tank to keep water from flowing directly across surface from bulkhead to bulkhead.

sumpplan.JPG
 
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I would put the bulk heads in near the bottom of the tanks and put a baffle in each tank next to the bulkhead. The bulkheads would control buubles. I ould place they refugium on one side and the skimmer on the other side. I would run one overflow to the skimmer tank and the other to the refugium tank. The height of the baffles should be the same height on the side tanks and lower in the pump return center tank. a drainage bulkhead should go in eiter side on the over flow side of the baffle. If you go ith either arrange ment go with at least 1.5" bulkheads as the area of a 1" drain pipe from the over flow is 0.79 square inches or two at 1.58 square inches. A 1.5" pipes area is 1.77 square inches, meaning you will not have to worry about your transfer pipes being perfectly clear, meaning one of the pipes between the tanks would have to be over half blocked before it became a problem causing an over flowing sump.
 
Excellent input fatman, especially the baffles. I should have thought of that myself.

You have increased my cost a bit here though. I do have two one inch drain hang on OFs. But the largest return pump I have on hand is a mag 9.5 and my hole saw bit and bulkheads I have on hand are one inch. I guess I am off to fleabay for a 1.5 hole saw and bulkheads.

As for the return pump I am looking at about four feet of head and four 90s if I hard plumb it or two if I use tubing to top of tank from pump. Regardless; with the mag 9.5 am down in the 400/600gph range. I know this is enough to keep the air out of my U tubes but this a pretty low flow rate for the setup.

What are your thoughts for a return pump here. I like the reliability of the mag drives but find that they are a heat producer when compared to other brands. I am thinking something rated for 1200 gph to play it safe. Maybe a quiteone which are a tad cheaper than the mag drives.

I do have a bunch of other pumps. I could probably run two but here again this is something I have never done. The potential problem here is if one pump gives out the other wont be enough to keep the air from building up in the U tubes and a siphon break would be a real possabilty.
 
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I try to avoid submersible pumps and only presently use them on needle wheel skimmers. I use both Pan World and Iwaki's in the gph range you speak of. They are nearly identical in every way but color and price. The Pan World is about 65 percent of the cost of an Iwaki. The enginner that designed the Pan World pumps used to be the Chief Engineer for Iwaki. Huh, wonder why they are a like? Iwaki are allegedly the leaders in the industry. For larger pumps I use Sequence Reef Flo pumps. I have not yet tried out Sequence's smaller Uno series pumps as they are just so pricey for their size.
 
is there anyway you could could cut a hole in the side of the stand to insert a sump? and then you could just install a door where you cut the hole.
 
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