22 gallon sump help

Matt

Reefer-In-Training
I've been putting off this post for a long time because I thought I could find all of the information I need myself in order to build my custom 22 gallon sump, but there are too many variables and it seems that I have to start my own thread for my custom sump. I would like people to critique my design. All information will be appreciated and please feel fee to add/remove anything from my design. The questions that I have are indicated in red.

Some prerequisite information:

  • This is my first saltwater tank
  • I have a 55 gallon
  • This tank will be used for live rock, fish, and coral
  • I will be building the sump tank INSIDE of my stand to maximize size (since the aquarium is already set up and I do not wish to take out the center brace to put the sump in

First, let's start with the build of the sump tank itself:

I will be building my own tank for the sump. I will be getting my glass cut into the specified measurements from my local hardware store and will be using 100% silicone to seal it.

Sump Tank Statistics:

Length: 36"
Width: 8.5"
Depth: 18"
Glass Thickness: .25"

For these dimensions, I will need the following cuts of glass:

2 Front/Back: 36" x 18"
2 Side: 8" x 18"
1 Bottom: 36" x 8.5

See attached image #1 for a visual representation.

Now let's look at the sump design itself:

I researched designs, built a prototype, re-researched designs, built another prototype, washed rinsed ant repeated.

I decided on a 3 section sump with the INTAKE on the left, REFUGIUM in the middle, and RETURN on the right. My design will need 4 .25" thick baffles. The baffles will be 15" X 7.75".

This is where my first question comes in: I decided to leave .125 or 1/8" on each side of the baffles for silicone. Is this too much? not enough? or just right?

I will have the following contents in each section:

INTAKE: Live rock rubble, protein skimmer (the protein skimmer will pump into the first baffle chamber into the bubble trap), 200 micron sock (15" length x 5" diameter) Is this too big?
REFUGIUM: macro algae, sand, and mineral mud
RETURN: return pump (information and questions below)

See image 2 for the sump design.

Equipment time:

Here is a list of equipment that I will have:

  • Eshopps PF-800 Overflow Box - Up to 125 gal. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Eshopps-PF-800-Overflow-Box-gal/dp/B001K5IK8S/ref=sr_1_cc_3?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1357863684&sr=1-3-catcorr&keywords=overflow+box]Amazon.com: Eshopps PF-800 Overflow Box - Up to 125 gal.: Pet Supplies[/ame]
  • Coralife New Style Super Skimmer Protein Skimmer for tanks up to 65 gallons [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Coralife-Style-Skimmer-Protein-gallons/dp/B00374TUZM/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1357863910&sr=1-2&keywords=coralife+protein+skimmer]Amazon.com: Coralife New Style Super Skimmer Protein Skimmer for tanks up to 65 gallons: Pet Supplies[/ame]
  • Maxi-Jet Pro Aquarium Pump 1200 GPH (used with protein skimmer) [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IMPOJ8/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00]Amazon.com: Marineland Ml90512 Maxi-Jet 1200 PRO, 295/1300GPH: Pet Supplies[/ame]
  • Danner 02722 Pondmaster 1200GPH Pump [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00026Z49Y/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00]Amazon.com: Danner 02722 Pondmaster 1200GPH Pump: Patio, Lawn & Garden[/ame]
    Is this overkill? my overflow box has a 1" bulkhead and is rated for 800 gallons. I will have 5 feet of head, and will also be using a ball valve. According to the box of the pump at 5' head, the GPH is 800, but the slip of paper that was inside of the box says that at at 5' head the GPH is 1000. Does anyone know which one is correct? If it is too much, will I be able to decrease the flow with the ball valve?
  • Fluval FX5 Filter Foam Block [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHLUJG/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00]Amazon.com: Fluval FX5 Filter Foam Block - 3-Pack: Pet Supplies[/ame]
  • Sump light: Any Suggestions? (I am also open to suggestions on what else/ what kind of macroalgae/miracle mud to put in the refugium)

Plumbing:

I have not planned out the plumbing fully because I would like some of these questions answered first, but suggestions will be VERY appreciated (I will be drilling a siphon break hole into a u-tube on the display tank to avoid overflow in case of power outage.)

Thank you very much for reading this. I tried my best to do as much research on my own as I could, but still need help because I am a total n00b. Does anyone want to be my saltwater mentor? lol I am willing to trade software development/programming experience!
 

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Ok, I will throw in my .02 .. I do not have all of your answers but im sure someone else here will. The sump design looks fine, and the all the measurements, and glass thickness also look like they'll work.. Im going to focus more on your equipment, I would trade out the Coralife skimmer and would look into a Reef Octopus Skimmer they are great skimmers for the $$ (Never ever want to skimp on a skimmer, it is crucial to your tank). I would try to go with something rated for double the size of your actual tank, or close to it.. Check out the Reef Octopus NWB110.
As for the Mag pump (1200gph) you should be fine, its always better to have more flow than not enough, and you have the right idea using the ball valve to help match it up with the Eshopps 800 overflow.
As for a sump light, I have heard hanging a compact floruescent light over the top of the fuge works fine.. Also.. you have your bubble trap from your intake section to your fuge.. I think you'd be better off putting the bubble trap from your fuge to your return, to minimize the amount of bubbles right before its returned to your main display.



But this is all I can add to your sump design, wait for someone with more experience to chime in :) happy reefing.
 
First question -- I don't think it really matters how much space you leave for silicone. The baffles should fit snugly, and the silicone will keep them in place. It doesn't have to be a water tight seal -- just enough to keep the baffles from moving around and keep them staying put.

Put a ball valve on the return line coming from the pump and you will be fine. In order to reduce the back pressure on the pump, many people prefer to have a T coming from the pump -- one line goes to the tank, and the other goes back to the sump. That way if you want less water going to your tank, you just redirect it back to the sump.

Sorry I can't answer your question about the filter sock. I've never used them.

For a refugium light, try this. 10 bucks and you're done!

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First question -- I don't think it really matters how much space you leave for silicone. The baffles should fit snugly, and the silicone will keep them in place. It doesn't have to be a water tight seal -- just enough to keep the baffles from moving around and keep them staying put.

Put a ball valve on the return line coming from the pump and you will be fine. In order to reduce the back pressure on the pump, many people prefer to have a T coming from the pump -- one line goes to the tank, and the other goes back to the sump. That way if you want less water going to your tank, you just redirect it back to the sump.

Sorry I can't answer your question about the filter sock. I've never used them.

For a refugium light, try this. 10 bucks and you're done!

Thank you so much Sarah. I like $10 ... especially after seeing my credit card bill for what I'm putting into this tank :D. Should I run it on a timer opposite of my display tank lighting schedule? or how long/what time do you recommend the light stay on?
 
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