TDS reading of RO/DI water

that just really seems crappy to me... cause if you have the system hooked to a float valve to fill your storage tank, and dont use some every couple days, then when you do use it, u'll be putting high count tds into your storage tank?

i guess you're best bet then is to also have the unit hooked up as an ATO to the tank or something so that you are using some every day or 2
 
I don't bother draining the first few gallons. I make so much water, that it all gets diluted out to undetectable levels in the end anyways.
 
my ro runs everyday filling the tank running water for drinking(does not run through the di filter) then for my holding can which is 64 gallons once that is full i shut it off until it is almost empty than run a gallon or so out of the line and hook it back up to fill again. my tds on the out side is never above1
 
Hi all. My local tapwater is 380TDS. Coming out of the DI filter it reads zero. When it reaches 3-4 TDS I change out the DI gel. It takes about 6mth's at approx 40ltr per week usage. When the pressure drops from 80 to 70psi, [about a yr ] I change out the pre filter & carbon one too. I back flush for 5min every time i start & finnish, With the DI filter disconnected, the outlet of the main membrane should show a pressure differential reading of approx 2-4psi, iff any more then you need to change the cartridge. But used properly it is good for 2yr's at least, this is on my consumption of course, it will vary on other's obviosly. I hope this is usefull. Regards.
 
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My RO/DI unit has a control called "fast flush". Is this a control to use when unit has been sitting for a bit to "flush out" first few gallons?
 
The back flush just reverses the water flow to a discharge line. It basically flushes your system and removes some of the build up on the filters, thus extending the lives of the filters. I do it once every two weeks for about 10 minutes.
 
So if I want to do it on mine, hook up the water feed at the RO filter's output? or at DI filter's output?
 
So if I want to do it on mine, hook up the water feed at the RO filter's output? or at DI filter's output?

No. The way a flush valve works is it bypasses the flow restrictor that controls the water pressure on the input side of the RO membrane. When the restrictor is bypassed it allows a faster flow of water over the membrane that will remove some of the gunk that clings to it.

The water still flows in the same direction but just at a faster rate to possibly break loose some of the built up junk and flush it out the waste water line. I filter water about once a week and I usually open up the bypass valve for a few minutes before I start filling my storage container. I think the instructions for my unit recommend flushing after your done using your unit but I always forget and end up doing it before the next use.
 
Hi, When you backflush, there is a valve on the front or side of the unit that you turn to the shut position. It should say this on a little notice. What happens is that the outlet is restricted inside the membrane unit to dump position which reverses the flow thereby blasting out any built up deposits to drain. when it has run for 5min or so, slowly turn it back to the position for an approximate pressure of 70-80psi[on your gauge] and it will continue producing product, with the normal dump quantity depending on the amount of impurities in your tap water. I hope this has helpede you. Regards.
 
Hi there, No there is no need to, on the R.MAN at least, the dump valve is diverting the flow from dump to membrane and the product passing through goes to the product tank, with the disolved waste going to the drain., when you turn the dump open, it diverts the reversed flow to drain.dumping the lot.. This is why when youve finnished the flush, you turn it slowly back to product production at the required pressure. Too much pressure shortens the membrane life, but gives you more product per hour. It's a balance between factors. Myself I flush for 5min's, then set the dump/regulator valve to give me a pressure of 70/80psi. I get 20lt in 1.5hr's at this setting, and maximum life for my filters and membrane. Regards.
 
From what I am reading in your response, you have a gauge on your RO/DI? I don't have a gauge. Any suggestions?
 
Yes, Go to your dealer and ask for a gauge, he should have one plus the connections to suit. Try to get the right one though, as it might be tricky getting the right fitting's. Regards.
 
I just got my TDS meter from Marine Depot yesterday. This thread go me thinking I had better have one. Haven't tested yet.
 
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