DetailChick
Reefing newb
Ok I will retest how do I get the PH down, I have marine buffer vut would I need something else to bring it down?
Tanks wiped out? Help Please
- Thread starter DetailChick
- Start date
DO NOT BUFFER OR ADD ANYTHING TO YOUR SYSTEM. YOU ALSO HAVE A CALCIUM IMBALANCE AND iM NOT SURE WHY THAT IS. YOU SHOULD USE GOOD HOUSE CLEANING RULES AND USE ONLY BUCKETS AND EQUIPMENT THAT YOU KNOW FOR SURE ARE NOT CONTAMINATED. YOU SHOULD MIX YOUR SALTWATER AT LEAST 72 HOURS PRIOR TO USING, AIRIATION AND MIXING FOR 72 HOURS FOR THE SALT TO THROUGHLY MIX AND STABLIZE BEFORE DOING A WATER CHANGE. ALWAYS TOP OFF YOUR SYSTEM WITH RO WATER AND CHECK THE SALINITY OF YOUR SYSTEM BEFORE DOING A WATER CHANGE. THE TEMPERATURE OF THE NEW SALTWATER MUST BE SAME AS THE TANK WATER. ALSO MAKE SURE YOU ONLY USE FOOD GRADE BARRELS FOR MIXING SALTWATER AS CHEAP PLASTIC BUCKETS AND BARRELS CAN LEACH BACK INTO THE SALT WATER.iF THE TANK WENT FOR TWO YEARS WITH NO PROBLEM AND THEN 10 DAYS AFTER YOU ADDED TWO PIECES OF ROCK YOUR PROBLEMS STARTED, I WOULD BE SUSPECIOUS OF THE NEW ROCKS ADDED.
WHAT i WOULD SUGGEST YOU DO IS:
1- MAKE A LIST OF ITEMS THAT COULD BE CAUSING YOU A PROBLEM. AND THAT IS EVERYTHING THAT COMES IN CONTACT WITH THE SYSTEM, SYSTEM WATER, NEW WATER, AND ANYTHING ELSE THAT SERVICES THE TANK.
2- START A PROCESS OF ELIMINATION ON EACH ITEM. ONCE YOU ARE SURE YOU HAVE THROUGHLY CHECKED AND CORRECTED ANY HOUSE KEEPING CHORES NEEDING A CHANGE, ALL YOUR EQUIPMENT IS USED ONLY FOR THE SYSTEM WITH NO OTHER CONTACT THAT WOULD CAUSE CONTAMINATION, CHECK YOU FISH FOOD AND ANY OTHER FOOD YOU ADD. OLD FOOD DISCARD, USE ONLY MARINE FOOD. FROZEN FOOD THAT HAS GOTTEN FREEZER BURN SHOULD BE DISCARDED. iF YOU USE FROZEN FOOD THAW IT OUT IN SOME TANK WATER BEFORE FEEDING. YOU ARE READY FOR STEP THREE.
3- RUN A FULL SERIES OF TESTS ON YOUR SYSTEM. TEST JUST BEFORE WATER CHANGE AND SEVERAL HOURS AFTER WATER CHANGE. ALSO TEST MID WEEK. KEEP A LOG AND DOCUMENT EVERYTHING YOU DO THAT AFFECTS THE SYSTEM. DO AT LEAST A 20% WATER CHANGE MONTHLY IS YOUR WATER PARAMETERS LOOK GOOD, AND MORE OFTER IF THE WATER PARAMETERS DONT LOOK RIGHT. YOU MIGHT WANT TO START WITH A 10% WATER CHANGE WEEKLY FOR THE 1ST FOUR WEEKS, AND THEN 10% FOR EACH 2 WEEKS, AND THEN 20% A MONTH. OF COURSE YOU MUST TEST AND IF YOUR WATER QUALITY STARTS TO DETERIATE YOU WILL NEED TO INCREASE THE WATER CHANGES BACK TO WEEKLY.
4- DO NOT ADD ANY ANIMALS UNTIL YOUR SYSTEM'S PH, ALK, TEMP, CALCIUM, MAGNESIUM, SALINITY, COPPER, AMMONIA, NITRITE, NITRATE, ARE ALL STABLE FOR AT LEAST6 WEEKS, THEN AND ONLY THEN ADD ONE FISH. FEED SPARINGLY AND KEEP TESTING AND WATCH TO SEE WHAT HAPPENS, IF YOU SEE NO PROBLEMS IN 10 TO 15 DAYS AND THE FISH IS DONG GOOD YOU CAN ADD AGAIN BUT REMEMBER TO ADD SLOWLY, AND GIVE A TWO TO THREE WEEK BREAK BETWEEN ADDITIONS. THIS INCLUDES CORALS AND INVERTS ASWELL.
HOPE SOMETHING HERE HELPS. DO NOT DIP YOUR TEST TUBES INTO THE TANK TO GET WATER, DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS IN THE TANK WATER, USE LATEX GOVES W/NO POWDER OR SCENTING, CANDLES, AIRESOL SPRAYS, TOBACCO SMOKE, CLOSE UP ROOM WITHOUT GOOD AIR CIRCULATION, ALL CAN CONTRIBUTE TO TANK SYNDROMES. GOOD LUCK. FEEL FREE TO E-MAIL ME OR DROP A PM IF YOU LIKE. KEEP VERY PRECISE AND GOOD RECORDS SO YOU CAN TRACE BACK WARDS YOUR STEPS AND HOPEFULLY DISCOVER YOUR PROBLEM. (I GUESS ILL SAY IT. IT SEEMS THE LFS ARE JUST TRYING TO SELL YOU STUFF. AT THIS POINT TAKE A BREATH, RE-EVALUATE WHERE YOU ARE AT NOW, AND DO AS I RECOMMENDED. YOUR 1ST STEP IS TO STABLIZE YOUR SYSTEM WITH WHAT IS IN IT NOW. THEN CLEANUP CREW, AND THEN ANIMALS FISH/CORALS.)
WHAT i WOULD SUGGEST YOU DO IS:
1- MAKE A LIST OF ITEMS THAT COULD BE CAUSING YOU A PROBLEM. AND THAT IS EVERYTHING THAT COMES IN CONTACT WITH THE SYSTEM, SYSTEM WATER, NEW WATER, AND ANYTHING ELSE THAT SERVICES THE TANK.
2- START A PROCESS OF ELIMINATION ON EACH ITEM. ONCE YOU ARE SURE YOU HAVE THROUGHLY CHECKED AND CORRECTED ANY HOUSE KEEPING CHORES NEEDING A CHANGE, ALL YOUR EQUIPMENT IS USED ONLY FOR THE SYSTEM WITH NO OTHER CONTACT THAT WOULD CAUSE CONTAMINATION, CHECK YOU FISH FOOD AND ANY OTHER FOOD YOU ADD. OLD FOOD DISCARD, USE ONLY MARINE FOOD. FROZEN FOOD THAT HAS GOTTEN FREEZER BURN SHOULD BE DISCARDED. iF YOU USE FROZEN FOOD THAW IT OUT IN SOME TANK WATER BEFORE FEEDING. YOU ARE READY FOR STEP THREE.
3- RUN A FULL SERIES OF TESTS ON YOUR SYSTEM. TEST JUST BEFORE WATER CHANGE AND SEVERAL HOURS AFTER WATER CHANGE. ALSO TEST MID WEEK. KEEP A LOG AND DOCUMENT EVERYTHING YOU DO THAT AFFECTS THE SYSTEM. DO AT LEAST A 20% WATER CHANGE MONTHLY IS YOUR WATER PARAMETERS LOOK GOOD, AND MORE OFTER IF THE WATER PARAMETERS DONT LOOK RIGHT. YOU MIGHT WANT TO START WITH A 10% WATER CHANGE WEEKLY FOR THE 1ST FOUR WEEKS, AND THEN 10% FOR EACH 2 WEEKS, AND THEN 20% A MONTH. OF COURSE YOU MUST TEST AND IF YOUR WATER QUALITY STARTS TO DETERIATE YOU WILL NEED TO INCREASE THE WATER CHANGES BACK TO WEEKLY.
4- DO NOT ADD ANY ANIMALS UNTIL YOUR SYSTEM'S PH, ALK, TEMP, CALCIUM, MAGNESIUM, SALINITY, COPPER, AMMONIA, NITRITE, NITRATE, ARE ALL STABLE FOR AT LEAST6 WEEKS, THEN AND ONLY THEN ADD ONE FISH. FEED SPARINGLY AND KEEP TESTING AND WATCH TO SEE WHAT HAPPENS, IF YOU SEE NO PROBLEMS IN 10 TO 15 DAYS AND THE FISH IS DONG GOOD YOU CAN ADD AGAIN BUT REMEMBER TO ADD SLOWLY, AND GIVE A TWO TO THREE WEEK BREAK BETWEEN ADDITIONS. THIS INCLUDES CORALS AND INVERTS ASWELL.
HOPE SOMETHING HERE HELPS. DO NOT DIP YOUR TEST TUBES INTO THE TANK TO GET WATER, DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS IN THE TANK WATER, USE LATEX GOVES W/NO POWDER OR SCENTING, CANDLES, AIRESOL SPRAYS, TOBACCO SMOKE, CLOSE UP ROOM WITHOUT GOOD AIR CIRCULATION, ALL CAN CONTRIBUTE TO TANK SYNDROMES. GOOD LUCK. FEEL FREE TO E-MAIL ME OR DROP A PM IF YOU LIKE. KEEP VERY PRECISE AND GOOD RECORDS SO YOU CAN TRACE BACK WARDS YOUR STEPS AND HOPEFULLY DISCOVER YOUR PROBLEM. (I GUESS ILL SAY IT. IT SEEMS THE LFS ARE JUST TRYING TO SELL YOU STUFF. AT THIS POINT TAKE A BREATH, RE-EVALUATE WHERE YOU ARE AT NOW, AND DO AS I RECOMMENDED. YOUR 1ST STEP IS TO STABLIZE YOUR SYSTEM WITH WHAT IS IN IT NOW. THEN CLEANUP CREW, AND THEN ANIMALS FISH/CORALS.)
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DetailChick
Reefing newb
TY I will foloow your recommendations, most I have been doing, all equipment is for the tank only,the tank does not have a hood it is open but no one is allowed to burn candles spray anything in the room ect, I bought my 5 gal buckets at Lowes cleaned them and they have never been used for anything else. I will go try to find food grade ones, also we have never in 7 years heat or arerated the salt water mixes or top offs. Just let them sit overnight and get to room temp. and keep them at room temp about 72 degrees. We will change that. I will throughly clean all my cleaning supplies just to be sure they are not the trouble.
I am considering doing a 100% water change changing out the substrate. I am fixing to be gone for 8 weeks on business to Fla so it is a good time to just let the tank run it's cycle, my fishkeeper can handle testing the water ect. What do you think? I agree my LFS just wants to sell stuff, no matter what you are right about that. It is also my fault for allowing them to talk me into it. I also wonder about having enough powerheads or the right ones. I am running 2 Maxijets 1200 and one Korl. #3 in the 90 gal, is that enough?
I am considering doing a 100% water change changing out the substrate. I am fixing to be gone for 8 weeks on business to Fla so it is a good time to just let the tank run it's cycle, my fishkeeper can handle testing the water ect. What do you think? I agree my LFS just wants to sell stuff, no matter what you are right about that. It is also my fault for allowing them to talk me into it. I also wonder about having enough powerheads or the right ones. I am running 2 Maxijets 1200 and one Korl. #3 in the 90 gal, is that enough?
ccCapt
Reef Hacker
I think just about everything you can try was covered. The 1 thing that stood out for me while reading this, beside the extremely high pH, was temp. You originally said 74? IMO, that's way too cold. FWIW, I keep my reef at 80 and during the summer with the MH lighting it gets to 82.
Even tho 1.023 SG is acceptable, why not keep it at the NSW level of 35 ppt (1.0267)?
Even tho 1.023 SG is acceptable, why not keep it at the NSW level of 35 ppt (1.0267)?
DetailChick
Reefing newb
TY Capt, I will raise temp up to 80, I had been told that I wanted to keep salinty between 1.020 and 1.024 was I misinformed, if I have it to low I will be sure to raise it.
ccCapt
Reef Hacker
I look at it like this. We spend all this $$$ trying to duplicate what we see in the ocean reefs. Natural sea water has an average salinity of 35 ppt. Being that this is probably the easiest parameter to maintain, why not keep our tanks as close to natural as possible.
yote
In Memoriam
1.023 to 1.026 is about where salinity needs to be for inverts.
DetailChick
Reefing newb
Thanks guys I will raise it up. Any suggestions on what type and how strong the power heads need to be in the tank? I have been told I am not running enough and not in the right spots. I have two Maxijet 1200 now pointing at top except one seems to be lacking in output and won't stay put, and one Korli. # 3 at the bottom, should all my powerheads be at the top or should I also have one or two at the bottom. Just want to correct anything I have been doing wrong all these years and get this right.
yote
In Memoriam
Theres really no right or wrong way to place your powerheads.You'll have to play around with those to get your flow just right for your tank.As long as you have a fairly good ripple going on the water surface and enough flow in the bottom to keep dead spots to minimum.
I'm running 2 of the Korilia #4s and 2 of the #1s in my 75.My fish seem to love the extra flow and my SPS really like it.
I'm running 2 of the Korilia #4s and 2 of the #1s in my 75.My fish seem to love the extra flow and my SPS really like it.
Bifferwine
I am a girl
Hmm your salinity and temp aren't off enough to be causing problems. 74 will not kill anything, and specific gravity less than 1.025 won't either. Those are minor and not the root of your problems, in my opinion.
DetailChick
Reefing newb
How about the o2 it is way low according to the chart, I am so glad you had me test that I would have never thought of that. What do you think about me changing all the water out and the substrate? Letting it sit for the 8 weeks while I am gone?
yote
In Memoriam
Since your DO is low,I'd just add maybe one more power head and make sure the surface of the water is roughed up pretty good.Maybe let it run like that untill you get back.
I wouldnt worry about changing the substraite just yet.Wait untill you see if the extra flow does any good first.
I wouldnt worry about changing the substraite just yet.Wait untill you see if the extra flow does any good first.
DetailChick
Reefing newb
Ok I may have found something I had not considered I was reading on another forum and found someone who was having the same trouble with their tank they had hooked up their RO Backwards, I did not do that but at the start of all this my LFS tested my RO/DI Water and it was a TDS of close to 300, I changed all my filters and my membrane now test at 3.9 could that have done this to my tanks having too high a TDS in the RO water I was using? We have since done a 45 gal water change with the new filter ect?
yote
In Memoriam
Any things possible.
anytime your ro system sets for more than 3 to 5 days you need to run it and discard all the output for at least 10 to 15 minutes before collecting it. also you need to get your pumps up hight in the tank. put them where they will agitate the surface and put them on timmers so that they will cycle. set one on off and the other slightly off so your cycle of both pumps are never the same. some times they will both be on and some times only one, and sometimes they will overlap. if you need movement low use the korleia #1 or 2 and place not more than 1/4 of the way down and point in direction you want to push the flow. remember what you are trying to get for water circulation is chaotic flow not direct horizontal flow. always keep your animals out of the direct flow for standard pumps and at at least 12 to 18 inches from the direct out put of the korelia. I would move the standard pumps to the top and adjust so that you get a brisk surface agitation, and move the korelia down a bit and use to move water lower, also add an additional pump to the opposite side. now there are many ways to setup your pumps but just do it in a way that the water in the tank comes from all different directions, i.e. chaotic. this will help you with oxygen levels and dead spots. good luck. I also agree until you try this keep your rock and sand. (if you see any black spots in your sand layer below the surface or smell rotten eggs for your tank, you have a hydrogen sulfide problem and the additional circulation could help this situation also. )
hotimportknight
New! Big Tank Club!
What about the calcium being off the chart? I heard at the LFS the owner was telling me about how some other store sold some kid calcium to make his corals grow, and no test kit, his calcium was too high and everything started to die and close up. Not sure if thats too accurate or not, but just what I heard.
DetailChick
Reefing newb
TY, hoping a large water change today and changing the substrate cleaning the rocks will fix this, guess we will have to wait and see. Don't know what else to do at this point. I'll post when we know.
Bifferwine
I am a girl
Sounds like dissolved oxygen and pH are your two biggest problems right now. Try correcting those before doing anything drastic (like changing out all the rocks and substrate).
