Purchased a 14gallon BioCube, and some goodies.

+1 to sarah on kessils dimming. Problem is they go down to only 12%. Adjusting them is very hard on corals unless left set to 1 position or having a reef keeper. 2, keeping the lid off is of great benifits. Those things a nuclear bombs with the lids and all in 1 set ups. Damn shame you bought it, id give you mine for free!
 
I had no problems with my nano cube.
mariobrothersleeve said:
+1 to sarah on kessils dimming. Problem is they go down to only 12%. Adjusting them is very hard on corals unless left set to 1 position or having a reef keeper. 2, keeping the lid off is of great benifits. Those things a nuclear bombs with the lids and all in 1 set ups. Damn shame you bought it, id give you mine for free!
Click to expand...
If you want to ship it I'll take it :thumbsup:
 
morning update. Im currently just running just the factory little filter it came with and will eventually be using some chemipure and purigen. So far Im starting to see some ammonia(yesterday was .25) and ph was about 8.0 or a touch higher, with 0 nitrates or nitrites yet. This morning I noticed two small green bubble's and two very small spots of hair algae. I will be running a kessil 150 on it rimless, but as of right now the only light it see's is just from my main office light in the morning for about an hour while I have coffee before I leave for work.

I'm wondering what my next step should be? I had planned to just add two clowns when it was ready, and then slowly add in a cuc. I would really like to be able to keep a emerald crab as part of the cuc, and have heard if you don't over feed them they might take care of the hair algae. Would you guys recommend adding a cuc sooner rather than later? And if so what and when, and how long after could I add clowns?
 
You are in the starting cycle of the tank yet. Bubble algae is what you see, and an emarld crab will work just fine for you. They do nip polyps, fair warning.
 
So this morning I had my first big newb screw up. I want to run the heater in the #1 compartment. So that means pulling out the stock filter. So in return I was going to add chemipure to chamber #2. It says rinse lightly. So I did that, put it in #2 added floss, turned on pump and powerhead.. Bam, tank is cloudy and grey. I guess their definition of "rinse lightly" is entirely different then mine. So in return I did a two gallon water change, but I'm not sure how or if this will effect the cycle of the tank......?
 
Chemipure is a good product for helping to correct a problem like over feeding. If you have good husbandry, you don't over feed or over stock and your using a protein skimmer and RO or distilled water you shouldn't need a product like chemipure. Your Live Rock should be doing the filtering for you.

When I had my nano cube I loaded the back full of LRR and I used a sponge with a 50 micron filter pad which I replaced biweekly as a pre filter because I was not using a skimmer.

If you put your heater in the first chamber and you are using the surface skimmer keep a close eye on the water level in the back
 
+1 Aquarian. I used a filter pad on the screen of middle chamber, changed it a couple of times a week when I had my 14 gallon. It's not necessary but it's nice to catch some junk, you just have to change it frequently or it'll cause a nitrate problem. But you don't need to be treating your tank for phosphates if you're using ro water and you don't need to run carbon if you don't have leathers releasing chemicals that could affect other corals and you're not overstocked. So chemipure is not necessary.
 
Not running a skimmer, just floss. So what I'm gathering if I don't run chemipure, then basically I'll just be running a filter pad.....?
 
Filter pad just to catch the small particles. The live rock and live sand do the filtering. In a nano the more rock you can stock the better off you are. That's why most people with nano tanks pull the filter media and put as much live rock rubble in the back as you can keep submerged.
 
I thought with lrr in a nano tank would promote nitrates? you can only pack in so much, the more you pack, the less surface area one would have rendering the amount as useful as a smaller amount.

I do agree on pulling every stock filtration on the biocube such as bioballs and filter/carbon pad. I used a intank media basket in chamber 2, popped the divider on chamber 1 to install heater. I ran the protein skimmer...... what a pain in the ass. the lime wood needs to be replaced monthly to consistently pull dry skimate. just keep your nitrates down with w/c and go lite on cuc.
I do run carbon and phosband in my tank now, but in the 14g I ran filter floss w/pad on top, chemipure, then cheato. I would not recommend the cheato in such a small tank, its as useful as crapping in a toddler pottie.
 
Got a media basket coming from someone second hand. I'll just run that and the chemipure on e I get a bit of a bio load going. I currently have about 12-14lbs of LR and just shy of 15lbs of live sand. I do plan to pull two small rocks out which might total about 2lbs that way I have a small amount of open sand bed for a couple corals.
 
The porosity of the lrr allowing the Bactria to live within the rock as well as on it is what gives you the surface area not the outer surface of the rock. It will raise nitrate if it's not submerged and is growing aerobic bacteria.
 
I got both tests the API pro liquid testing as well as the API five in one strips. The strips seem a bit harder to read to me, as well as it doesn't test ammonia. The main thing I noticed is that the ph seems to read completely different between the two kits. My tank has only been up and running for about a week so it's no big deal for now, but I'm wondering what test is more accurate, or should I try and just use one and look for signs in the tank of what it wants?



 
can anyone ID these for me. Just started running my lights a little bit two days ago and had a couple things pop up.



these are a little harder to see since they move a fair amount so I was only able to get the one on the left kind of clear.
 
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