Mega Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover - DIY!

would it be safe to remove my skimmer now? it's the hang on type in the tank and it blows out so much bubbles that it gets stuck in the siphon.
 
Trestan yes remove the skimmer.

Andy no you don't ever want to use Halogens, or Incandescents. Only CFL's. Time to see pics of your scrubber and flow. Also, remove your chaeto, it is only causing trouble.

You can add two more CFLs, but let's see pics first.

Lastly, if growth is brown, clean every 3 to 5 days, not 7 days.
 
I took some photos today.

Here is the screen prior to cleaning.

IMG_1938.jpg


Here is the screen after cleaning. I cleaned only the two exterior sides:

IMG_1939.jpg


Here is the screen with its water flow:

IMG_1943.jpg


You can see that unless the fixtures are much smaller, I really can't get any more lights down here. Not sure how to achieve a higher actual wattage with CFLs unless I order a specialty bulb online somewhere.
 
I don't think it matters where a water heater goes, as long as it is safe (ask in the equipment forums of other sites.) Just don't melt the bucket.

Halogens are the wrong K, and too hot, and don't put out enough light.

Can't you clip-on a CFL flood? Post pics further away to show the whole sump and current light.
 
My return line is spewing out lots of micro bubbles. looks like it's pumping hundreds of bubbles per second. im using the vinyl tubing for the return line with a rio pump. is it because the bucket is too small?; because the the water splashes a little when it goes into the bucket?

i also notice that my water fizzes a lot when the water splashes into the bucket. what causes the fizzing?

here are pictures.

17956_296974550475_537480475_4949049_3759146_n.jpg

17956_296974560475_537480475_4949050_915936_n.jpg

17956_296974565475_537480475_4949051_659584_n.jpg

17956_296974570475_537480475_4949052_7831283_n.jpg

17956_296974585475_537480475_4949054_6413566_n.jpg
 
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A few things:

1. Test what happens if your heater falls to the bottom of the bucket; see if it melts the bucket.

2. You used the wrong screen material. Change that material to plastic canvas from your local craft/sewing store, and rough it up a LOT.

3. To stop the bubbles, move the pump inlet as far away from the screen as you can. Then, insert a piece of plastic between the pump and the screen; the plastic should go to within about 1/2 inch from the bottom of the bucket. This should only let water under it, and not bubbles.

4. What is that last pic?
 
Thanks. i appreciate all your guidance. that screen was for a tank divider. how do i rough the screens up?

what kind of plastic do i use to separate the screen from the pump?
the last pic is my siphon and return.
 
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You don't rough screen divider; you replace it with plastic canvas, then rough up the canvas.

Any hard plastic for the separator.
 
I'm getting ready to set up my new 90 gal DT with a 55 gal sump and this is the new set up that I have been working on for my sump.. I'm missing one divider for the bubble trap because I broke it :oops: LOL

on my temp scrubber that I'm using right now I have the clip lights, but for this one I would like somthing that I can butt up to the glass on the side what can I use,
T5 HO??
 

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would somthing like this work?? this is for water plants


IMG_5811.jpg


IMG_5814.jpg



AQUARIUM LIGHTING CLIP LIGHT ×1PL13W





1. ADJUSTABLE HEIGHT
2. ABLE TO CLIP ON MOST AQUARIUM
3. HIGH QUALITY PL TUBE
 


Product name :AQUARIUM LIGHTING CLIP LIGHT ×1PL13W lADJUSTABLE HEIGHT.
lFLEXIBLE JOINT.
lABLE TO CLIP ON MOST AQUARIUM.
lHIGH QUALITY L TUBE.
lMIRROR REFLECTOR FOR OPTIMUM REFLECTION.
lFashionable, compact and easy to install it to the aquarium.
lProvides the optimum lighting for plants 8~10 hours per day.
Volt Input:100-130V/60-50Hz
Power:13W


or would this work??
GLOHeader_E.jpg

GLO T5 HO ELECTRIC LIGHTING SYSTEM
GLO T5 HO ELECTRONIC FLUORESCENT LIGHTING SYSTEMS COME ASSEMBLED WITH A T5HO ELECTRONIC BALLAST CONNECTED TO WATER RESISTANT COMPRESSION FIT BULB END CAPS. THEY ALSO INCLUDE BULB CLIPS, MOUNTING PLATES, AN ILLUMINATED ON/ OFF INDICATOR AND ARE DOUBLE BULB CONFIGURATIONS ONLY.

~LOWER 48 ONLY~
a.imagelink {color:#0000FF;} a:hover.imagelink {color:#0000FF;} a:visited.imagelink {color:#800080;} a.imagelink img.auctionimage { border: 2px solid #0000FF; } a:visited.imagelink img.auctionimage { border: 2px solid #800080; }

a1555.jpg


 

 
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Nice build! First one I've seen that extends out of the sump with walls like that. The extended-top splash guard is cool too.

For light, yes use T5HO, but get enough watts (at least 50). Best would be bulbs even ly spaced out across the screen like this:

UserHuhhhhhOnMB-11.jpg




But you could just use the same lighting units I'm using on mine:

Nova Extreme T5HOx2 | Current What's Next



The bulbs are not spread out, but it's cheap and easy. If you put two of these on each side, you'd have about 200 watts of light, spread out, and very strong filtering.
 
what about using a MH light fixture?? I ran across this one for $76.00 and would I need one on both sides


70W/150W DE METAL HALIDE LAMP +E-Ballast+10/14/20k bulb













[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]This auction for a lighting kit, it include 1X electronic ballast (you can choice 70W ballast or 150W ballast)+1X "Marine color" brand metal halide bulb (you can choose the color of the bulb, 10k 14k or 20k) + 1Xreflector[/FONT]


[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]the lamp doesn't include power plug and connection wire,you need install by yourself, it's very easy!check our pictures.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The size of the reflector is 23cmX14.5cmX13cm [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]electric ballast:[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Energy efficient. No lamp flickering. COOL and SILENT operation.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Vollage:220-250v[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Rated Power:70/150W[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]line current: 0.3/0.68A [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The size of the ballast: length*width*height: 166mm×73mm×44mm[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]operating temperature: -25c~50c[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]"marine color" brand great quality metal halide bulbs[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]please refer my store: http://stores.shop.ebay.com/dehao-department-store[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Condition:100% Brand New in Box[/FONT]









 
or what about the LED Lighting?? I found this one on Fosters

Azoo Neo-Light

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Hurry! Sale ends February 1st, 2010. *Brilliant LED light fixture great for small or large aquariums*Use as the primary light for compact, desktop aquariums*Perfect supplementary fixture for shimmering aquarium light effectsEnjoy brilliant aquarium lighting with minimal energy use. This high performance, energy-saving aquarium light provides an amazing 50,000-100,000 hours of reliable, flicker-free lighting. The compact Azoo Neo-Light features 24 LEDs (6 blue and 18 white) that emit a crisp light that simulates bright, marine light conditions. Penetrating and concentrated light creates shimmering light effects similar to metal halide light fixtures but without excess heat output or energy consumption. Durable metal housing is corrosion proof and well-suited for saltwater aquarium use. Adjustable arm bar is connected to an aquarium mount that secures the Azoo Neo-Light to aquarium glass up to 1/4" thick. Measures 10" x 7" high (LED portion measures only 1" dia x 10" long).
 
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