Major Cycling problem! Help!

breebauer

Reefing newb
3 weeks ago I finally set up my 10gal hex again with:
Fluval canister filter
live sand
12 lbs of live rock
2 hermit crabs (introduced 1 week ago)

Everything was going as it should; my amonia was starting to spike as expected, and then SOMEBODY (not me, my bf) put Ammo-lock in the tank!!! About 5 days into it...
(To be fair, he didn't realize what he was doing was a disaster, and I was the one trying to teach him about salt water tanks, but I neglected to mention the part about how NECESSARY it was for the tank to properly cycle.)

So, I figured that I would just do a 50% water change, and let the Ammo-lock cycle itself out of the tank, and I would be back on track. And, I thought I was, until now:

My ammonia did spike... (farther than when the AL was put into it) up to between 4.0 and 6.0 ppm for 1 week
then my nitrites showed a spike: first .50ppm up to 3.0ppm for 5 days including today
now my nitrates are reading between 40 and 80 ppm, but:
my ammonia is still reading over 4.0 and my nitrites still read 3,0 along with the 40-80 nitrate reading.
Now everything shows a spike. I've cycled many tanks before, and have never had this problem, so I'm assumming that it has to do with the ammo-lok. I know that affects the readings, giving a false negative. But my ammo reading went up since then. And now everything is up, and staying there. I don't think this is normal.
Should I do another water change?
Thanks so much!
 
I would remove the ammo-lock if you didn't already and replace it with a good activated carbon.That should remove any chemicals left behind from the ammo-lock.Since you're still showing high ammonia doing a water change now will only prolong the cycle but you also mention it could be a false reading.If you do a wc,I would only do 25% or so.Let the carbon run for a few days and see what it reads then....good luck.
 
It wouldnt be a bad idea to get a second oppinion on your tests just to make sure your not getting a false reading.
I have no idea how ammo-lock would effect the test readings since I've never used the stuff.
 
Thanks again reeffreak!
I was so concerned about my lighting question, that I never realized that my biggest problem was the cycle dillemma.

When you say 'remove the ammo-lock' I'm not sure what you're talking about, because it's a liquid product. I also have ammo chips in the canister filter, but always have,and I think they're beneficial. The liquid pruduct is the problem, I think.

I'm going to do a partial w/c and replace the carbon, can you think of anything else, while I'm there?

Thanks again for your help!
 
Sorry,I thought the ammo-lock was a media that looks like gravel or small rocks.Personally,I would remove the ammo chips too.Let the live rock and sand do what it suppose to do in saltwater tanks.....break down ammonia and nitrite not media or liquid that may or may not work.Carbon,filter floss,or Chemipure is the only regular media I would use.
 
Thanks again reeffreak!
I was so concerned about my lighting question, that I never realized that my biggest problem was the cycle dillemma.

When you say 'remove the ammo-lock' I'm not sure what you're talking about, because it's a liquid product. I also have ammo chips in the canister filter, but always have,and I think they're beneficial. The liquid pruduct is the problem, I think.

I'm going to do a partial w/c and replace the carbon, can you think of anything else, while I'm there?

Thanks again for your help!

Im not 100% sure but I have only seen the ammo chips that say fresh water on them. Please correct me if I am wrong on that.

Brian
 
I've been using a fluval canister filter for a while, the media I use for ammonia filtration is 'Biomax'. I guess I got used to calling it 'ammo chips'. Sorry!
 
Thanks again reeffreak. I wasn't thinking that the filter media would also be a problem; it never was before. But, now that I think about it, I always used media from an established filter. The liquid was never used by me either, so I was blaming that.

(It's amazing how much the human brain can forget in such a short period of time!) Ok, you said remove what, again? :D

Should I just restart the whole tank?:frustrat:
I'm going diving tomorrow... in NY, in the ocean, but I've never collected anything local to cycle a tank. Other people I know have, I'm just chicken I guess...
Any thoughts?
Again, thank you!!!
 
I wouldn't use anything out of the ocean unless its taken far from shore.It would be too polluted to use in a closed aquaria.The shoreline and near the shore is the ocean skimmer where most pollutants accumulates.Check your local laws,I hate for you to get arrested.
 
Now that you bring it up... how far from the shore should we go? That was going to be a question in another section;... but since you brought it up...
It seems alot of aquariasts from around here collect for their own tanks, especially in sept/oct.
 
I heard from 5-10 miles from shore.People actually collect rocks from New York?It just sounds like the area is polluted,heck I use to live in Jersey and would never set foot in the ocean.
 
I think you'd be alright catching your own stuff as long as you go out 7 or 8 miles.But make sure you check with your local game and fish office before hand to get the right permits and such.
Just remember that once you add it to your tank,its your responsibility till its dead.You cant release it back into the wild.
 
I agree with Yote, you run the risk of introducing a potential contaminate into the ocean that can harm the ecosystem. If you can LEGALLY take it out, is must stay in your tank. If it dies, throw it away, but not back into the ocean.

As for the condition of your tank. Patience is the best bet. Things tend to work themselves out with time and normal water changes. It may take a few more weeks for your tank to stabilize. If, after 3 weeks, your levels are not normal, you might want to take it down. I personally have never heard of a tank that with enough LR, carbon, and patience, that cannot recover in a short amount of time. Best of luck.

-Dr Marco :sfish:
 
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