IraqVeterans 75gal

[XxKnuckleheadxX]

i went back and looked at your setup i prolly wouldnt run any type of ball valve on yours and just run the line down into your sump. you could run a ball valve on your input and output and slow down the water through your sump though. i know im having conflicting statements now. lol. its just i went back and seen yoru sump and i dont see a real need to use ball valves really.

 

[IraqVeteran]

knucklehead....is this what you mean by having the flow going to the first and second chamber?

my sump will actually have skimmer->fuge->return

 

[IraqVeteran]

wouldnt I need ball valves just in case the flow doesnt match the overflow and the return? If my overflow, with the help of gravity I presume, has a higher rate than what my return pump can produce wouldnt I need a ball valve to slow it down a little and vice versa on the return side? Even if I had ball valves on the overflow side and return side and kept them completely open then that shouldnt hurt having them on there should it?

 

[XxKnuckleheadxX]

that pic is what i was tryin to say earlier.that setup you do need ball valves to control water flow. but with the over flow box and the pump you have you will be fine with your setup. you will not need ball valves

 

[IraqVeteran]

The thing that worries me is that once I install the pipe thats it...there is no installing a ball valve once its in unless I break it all down and start over again and I dont want to do that.

 

[Hornet]

Without knowing what your pump and overflow are rated for, I would still say you can't go wrong by putting a ball valve on the "outlet" of your return pump. Just like you said you can always run it wide open if you don't need to slow the flow down.

Glad to see your thread going, I'll be following along.

 

[IraqVeteran]

I would post pics of my eqpt, but it wont let me load them. It tells me "missing token".....whatever the hell that means.

My overflow is rated 700gph and the mag7 return pump is rated at 800gph.

 

[IraqVeteran]

Without knowing what your pump and overflow are rated for, I would still say you can't go wrong by putting a ball valve on the "outlet" of your return pump. Just like you said you can always run it wide open if you don't need to slow the flow down.

Glad to see your thread going, I'll be following along.

So there is no need for one on the overflow side? Also, I should put a reverse flow valve on the return (outlet) side also right?

 

[Hornet]

So there is no need for one on the overflow side? Also, I should put a reverse flow valve on the return (outlet) side also right?

Ball valves should not be installed on the intake side of the pump. The suggested way of limiting flow from the return pump is by closing off the outlet side. Most pumps supposedly run more efficiently with some back pressure on the outlet side anyway.

As far as the check valve you'll get varying opinions on those. I used one on my tank but my set-up is different that yours and I was trying to correct a poor design problem. If your returning water to your DT over the top of the back glass I would think you'd be fine using the anti-siphon holes. But I'd wait to see what some of the professionals around here have to add.

 

[daugherty]

have you tried photobucket to up load your pics to? it is a free pic web host

 

[daugherty]

no do not put a ballvalve on the drain

 

[daugherty]

the anti spjhion holes are the way to go the check valves can fail often and many have metal in them. you can put a ball valve on the bottom of the drain on one side for the fuge orother side but you need to have one side of the drain fully open all the time

 

[dustin_P74]

i dont think a ball or check valve is needed, your overflow is rated 700gph, so itll drain 700gph. your pump is rated for 800gph but it WONT pump back 800gph because of the head room

 

[IraqVeteran]

With the overflow being 700gph and mag7 pump being 800gph..... That is ok though right? That is what was recommended for me to get. So branch off the drain with one end to the skimmer section ( first section) and ball valve to fuge (second section)?

 

[Hornet]

You said your sump is Skimmer > Fuge > Return. Water will flow into the fuge from skimmer section so there is no need to split the drains between both sections. Plus dumping raw tank water directly into the fuge can lead to increased detrius build up in the fuge over time.

 

[daugherty]

you want raw water in the fuge that is how everything in there gets its food. and and for the pump the farther the water has to pump up the less gph you are going to get from the pump at the output

 

[Hornet]

I suppose I stand corrected. I was going off the assumption that the skimmer does not totally clean all the water that gets passed to the next stage.

 

[XxKnuckleheadxX]

like i was saying before with your sump your not gonna need any ball valves unless you did set up your fuge like that drawing you posted up before.

 

[IraqVeteran]

ok...I am getting conflicting info here.....my sump will be skimmer->fuge->return

If I have the overflow going to the skimmer section and then branched off to the fuge(with a ball valve to control flow to the fuge) then to the return and then you are saying to not have a ball valve. As someone stated before, if I put a ball valve on the overflow pipe and the return pipe and kept them wide open how would that cause issues? I figured if I didnt have them and it turned out I did need them then I will be screwed right?

 

[IraqVeteran]

sump idea for 75gal....just click on the pic to see larger view (I used photobucket like someone suggested earlier). It isnt to scale and the skimmer is obviously not going to be down that far in the water.