green slime???

[yote]

A bag of chemi-pure elite would work great.

 

[Piggy]

Agree with yote. Buy a bag of chemi-pure elite. That should do the trick.

 

[kristy]

OK. Bought a new Ca test and it read the same as the current one, so I have high Ca. Picked up the Chemi-Pure Elite. What will this do and when should I see results?

 

[yote]

Nothing will get rid of algae over night.The chemi-pure elite will help take the excess nutrients out of the water.As for when you should see results,Cant answer that.Every tank is different.Your algae might be gone in a week or less,or could take a couple of months of fighting it.

 

[Piggy]

Guess it wasn't the test kit. Did you buy it from the same store? Have you tested your ro water? All I can think of is your water is high in calcium. Also have you tested a fresh batch of salt water?

 

[fatman]

It would seem impossible for water at normal operating temperature to be as high as you stated and have an acceptable pH and alkalinity. I have not seen tanks using both Kalkwasser and calcium generators with calcium levels maintained successfully in the 600 range. Water can only hold so much of an over saturation before spontaneous crystallization starts, which would mean a precipitation of calcium would start in the 500-550 levels at most. Your ionic levels would be way out of balance with calcium readings that high. Whereas your alkalinity is reasonable and your pH if I remember was OK. Such a high calcium readings could not possibly have been caused by water changes. As far as Instant Ocean Having a low Calcium level, that formulation was changed long ago and no containers of "low" calcium mix should be on the shelves. The problem was not a low calcium level, but was a low buffer level. Do not waste your money on ChemElite, just use a ferric iron compound like PhosLock, PhosBan, PhosaR or Drs. Foster and Smith store brand phosphate remover. You are already using charcoal. ChemElite is just a combination of phosphate remover, charcoal and an ion exchange resin at a much jacked up price from what they would cost separately and then combined. The ion exchange reins will not provide relief from the algae or "high Calcium levels". If you are doing water changes already the best additional practice would be phosphate remover as suggested by Biffer and increased circulation. If your pH is in line I would definately question the calcium tests especially if the test kit brand is the same and from the same source. It would take a whole lot of acid to get that much calcium (900 +) into your water. That would mean a VERY LOW pH or a LOT of CO2. Just what is your pH and salinity level.

 

[jhnrb]

Read the back of the bottles of anything you are adding to your system. additives sometimes will affect some of the test results. you are either doing something wrong in your test procedure, computation, ect. or you are getting a false reading due to an additive you are using. for my two cents you really need to stop adding stuff to your system. let the system run a cycle and progress slowly. make sure you have good water circulation. once you cycle, then assess your needs. and go from there. all new systems will go through an algae cycle, diatom cycle, and so forth, so be patient and research carefully what your problem is until you know why it is happening, then you will be able to properly address it. feel free to pm me anytime.

 

[WarmWaterDiver]

Where is the green slime growing...on the rocks or the glass...? Sometimes coralline starts out looking like fuzzy green stuff. Make sure you have enough bio filtration, live sand, live rock etc. My mom has a similar problem with nitrates, nitrites but she has nearly no live rock and like a 1/4 inch sand bed (in a 75). Not to mention bioballs that are like 12 years old which can be nitrate factories.