Can't get rid of the Algae

[Northstar24]

Your algae is definitely being caused by the elevated phosphates. I would also guess that you actually have nitrates even though they are reading 0, as they are being used up by the nuisance algae.

With no livestock and no feeding, the phosphate has to be coming from somewhere else, either your rock (lace rock and some dry rock has been known to leech out phosphates) or your source water are my two guesses. I would check your source water for phosphates, if that reads 0, it pretty much has to be leeching out from the rocks.

If that is the case, you'll need some sort of phosphate export, chaetomorpha or caulerpa and possibly even some sort of reactor with phosphate removal media

Check your source water and report back

 

[sundance2011]

I know the source, that was never in question, it's the live rock, it is from my previous setup. I am using RO water. So I just need to keep doing water changes to get the PO4 down.




thanks!

 

[sundance2011]

It appears I have the PO4 down to zero or at least as far as testing can detect. How long should it take for the algae to start to die off and disappear, any idea?

Thanks

 

[sundance2011]

Your algae is definitely being caused by the elevated phosphates. I would also guess that you actually have nitrates even though they are reading 0, as they are being used up by the nuisance algae.

I have everything down to zero. So if zero is not zero how the heck am I going to 1) get things down to where the algae won't grow, what ever that is since zero isn't zero 2) know when it's really zero and keep it there?

I have had a Phosphate reactor going for almost a month now and have the phosphates to zero test wise as well as nitrates and nitrites and still the algae is growing like crazy. It maybe has slowed but that is it. I am so sick of this :pooh:, pissed, frustrated I'm about ready to buy 4 bags of sackrete. :frustrat::pissed:

 

[ErinCahir]

Did we ever touch on what your stock list is and how much/often/what you are feeding?

 

[sundance2011]

Did we ever touch on what your stock list is and how much/often/what you are feeding?

1 Yellow Tang (about 3")
two small clowns

Feed once or twice a week Ocean Nutrition Formula 2 Marine pellets, 2 to 3 pinches.

Also attached is an image of the current state. these rocks were scrubbed of algae about 2 weeks ago.

 

[SarahSmile]

How close are your rocks to your lights? Sometimes I feel as though the rocks being too close can cause algae like that.
What do you have as a cleaning crew? Maybe grab some various snails and a crab or two.

 

[x19]

I have everything down to zero. So if zero is not zero how the heck am I going to 1) get things down to where the algae won't grow, what ever that is since zero isn't zero 2) know when it's really zero and keep it there?

I have had a Phosphate reactor going for almost a month now and have the phosphates to zero test wise as well as nitrates and nitrites and still the algae is growing like crazy. It maybe has slowed but that is it. I am so sick of this :pooh:, pissed, frustrated I'm about ready to buy 4 bags of sackrete. :frustrat::pissed:

I would suggest the following for killing the algae:

1. Instead of using GFO in your phosphate reactor, use Kent Phosphate sponge for 3 days. Keep in mind this stuff has to be changed daily or it can leach the phosphate into the water.

2. After the three days replace the Kent Phosphate sponge with GFO.

3. During this time I'd suggest a total light blackout, complete with a tarp to protect the tank from any ambient light.

That should kill off most if not all of the hair algae. It will do nothing to bubble algae.

As for zero not being zero, part of that is do to the fidelity of the titration kits. If I use a traditional Elos kit my P04 measures zero, however if I used my digital Hannah Checker it measures .04 - .09 ppm. Anything above .05 can cause algae issues, and you should strive for zero. They actually sell a more accurate version that measures in parts per billion (PPB) instead of parts per million (PPM) for the really high level folks.

 

[fastrd400]

Out of curiosity, what kind of lighting are you running, and how old are the bulbs?

 

[sundance2011]

Right now two 48" HO flow lights (about 5 hours a day, just cut back for 8 or so), no MH.

 

[fastrd400]

Right now two 48" HO flow lights (about 5 hours a day, just cut back for 8 or so), no MH.

How old are the bulbs? What kind of bulbs are they?

 

[valasaraptor]

feeding the pellets and flake could be doing it too....preservatives......not good for the tank,try switching to a vareity of frozen

 

[sundance2011]

This Algae has beat me, this is no fun any more. Over the course of the past 4 to 6 months I have completely taken down and emptied the aquarium, scrubbed it with bleach to hopefully kill all the algae (unsuccessfully it appears). Filled it back up with RO water and new sand, seasoned it for a good month with no fish. Got the Nitrate and Nitrite levels as well as the PO4 down to zero with countless water changes (maybe 30 or 40) and a Phosphate reactor, I would guess $100 to $150 in salt mix and what has that gotten me, I'm right back where I was, brown algae (even in the outlet of the phosphate reactor) and green hair algae everywhere just as it was before I did all this.

It's just not any fun and I don't mind spending the money but it would be nice if there was a positive result. I appreciate all the great advice but tarping the aquarium, feeding only frozen food....I just don't feel like the effort is going to accomplish much. Does anyone feed only frozen food, can this be that big of a contributor to the problem, tons of people use these foods with no problem. Not saying it isn't a good idea but after all that I have done is that really going to be the magic cure.

Again, thanks for the advice.

 

[little_fish]

most people only feed frozen, its much healthier for your fish and better for your water quality.

Also what kind of rocks do you have? Some rocks, especially if they are inland rocks will leach back out phosphates and nitrates once in our tanks and you remove all the nitrates and phosphates from the water column.

Also many tanks go through algae blooms like this, you just have to stick with it. Mine tank looked like poo for several months before I worked through my algae issues.

Finally, i would refer you to algae scrubber. IMO they are best algae fighters ever invented.
https://www.livingreefs.com/mega-powerful-nitrate-and-phosphate-remover-diy-t16734.html

 

[sundance2011]

https://www.livingreefs.com/mega-powerful-nitrate-and-phosphate-remover-diy-t16734.html[/url]

OK this sounds interesting, maybe i'll stick with it just a little longer and give this a try.

 

[SarahSmile]

There are 2 questions you didn't answer that I feel may be a contributor to your problem;
Do you have T-5 bulbs? How old are they? Try getting new bulbs. They should be replaced frequently and low quality bulbs can and will cause algae issues.
What do you have as a clean up crew? A wide variety of snails? I would try adding different types.
Yes, using food from a can may cause water quality issues. Why not try switching to frozen? You seem opposed but it is an easy switch and you have nothing to lose.
New bulbs, frozen foods, using only r/o water, having lots of snails. These are all easy things to do and may have a huge impact.

 

[sundance2011]

The lights are HO 48" flo. lights and they are old. Don't know if they are T5 or not. Don't want to buy new ones as I want to get LED if I can get the algae issue behind me.

Just starting to build up the cleaning crew. right now about 100 Nassarius, 4 turbo and 1 Emerald crab.

Not opposed to frozen food at all, it's just new to me to feed only frozen food. Also what about herbivores like my Yellow Tang, is there frozen food for them as well?

 

[SarahSmile]

Ahhh, I believe that is your problem right there. Old bulbs. And, if they are a lesser quality than T-5 that will give you algae as well. (for yours you need at least a 4 bulb, 54 watt each, t-5 unit, sounds like you don't have that at all).So, you're creating an real paradox if you are waiting for your algae to go away before you get a better light unit, cause your lights are what are causing the problem, IMHO. So, never a better time to upgrade :).
They sell emerald entree which is for herbivores.

 

[sundance2011]

So since algae need light to grow and the old ones are the problem it would be better to turn them off (zero light) till I get LED's

 

[SarahSmile]

When do you plan on getting the LEDs?