First online fish purchase, first QT setup-assistance please

[Max125g]

QT Tank Questions

I just made a purchase on LA and their Diver’s Den and I’m thinking now is a good time to do my first QT tank.

I have never used a QT tank before in both my sw and fw experience (well I used it once with some rams but they didn’t make it) but now that I have a bunch of expensive corals and 8 fish/random inverts I would rather try to prevent introducing any new diseases to the tank.

Just ordered a:
“tiny” blue Caribbean tang (1-2”)
Small Kole Tang (2-2.5”)
Diver’s Den Sargassum/Red Tail Trigger (about 4 ¾ “)

With those 3 fish in mind, I’m guessing I should QT them for a while. How long, I have heard that Trigger’s don’t do well in QT tanks. Now the question remains, what size QT should I use and let me know if my technique below is a good idea or not.

My only spare tank is a 55g which is most likely a bit big for a QT, so I’ll have to go buy one today. Would a 20g work? 10g? do I need to QT or do fish from LA usually arrive in good condition?

QT procedures (as far as I know)
Take about 25% of the QT’s volume in your current tank water
Add 75% new saltwater
No rocks, sand or other items-some PVC cuttings are ok.
What do I do for filtration? Do I buy a HOB? Should I add a few pieces of my rubble from DT’s sump into the QT knowing if I have to medicate they are trash after? I’m guessing a Powerhead or 2 and maybe even an airstone?

Again-I think I have the basic principle of the QT tank but just verifying that I “need” it for this order and if my idea for setting one up is ok, also size recommendations (largest fish is the trigger at nearly 5”)

 

[Kelz88]

considering how much swimming room those fishies need, the 55 would probebly be best. Even when tangs are tiny they swim like little mad men.

Sandless and rockless i believe, and you have to keep a close eye on the lvls.

Hob would probebly be a good idea, if you have to dose with med you might need to run carbon. Anything used in the QT needs to stay with the QT. Nets, containers etc, i would mark them somehow so you dont get them confused with regular tank equipment.

 

[Kelz88]

also if you use copper, dont use the 55 for inverts, coral or freshwater plants. The tank will basically only ever be a QT the silicone will hold on to the chemicals for a long time

 

[Max125g]

I just did some more reading on the Trigger that will be coming from Diver's Den (not the 2 tangs) but it seems their process is very extensive. After reading their process would you feel confident putting the Trigger directly into the DT?
LiveAquaria.com Diver's Den® Quarantine Procedure for Fish

And if the Trigger is going directly into DT, then i could technically use a smaller tank for the Juvey Tangs, maybe a 20L instead of the huge 55 for 2 baby tangs? Maybe even a 10g would suffice or that's way to small, both tangs are about 2" each

Thoughts?

 

[Kelz88]

Baby tangs need space too! I just fear that the 20g would cause more stress then good. Esp if you Q for ich, that will take 8 weeks.

 

[Max125g]

ok 55 it is, thanks. Do you agree with the Trigger going directly into the DT b/c of their procedures?

 

[BL1]

Even with DD fish, you should still QT them. Do you already have fish in your DT? If so have they been QTed?

 

[justanotherfishhead]

I was reading that Diver's Den QT process the other day. It does sound like they do a good job of making sure they don't have anything. And if you did not treat your current fish for ich, maybe you are most interested in keeping out other more obvious diseases. But I think most people will tell you don't trust anyone - not your LFS, not LA, no one who says a fish is okay without doing your own QT.

I treated 5 small fish in a 30 gal QT with Cupramine, and I had to do a lot of water changes to keep the water good. If you're not doing meds you will have a much easier time. If I were you I'd get at least a 30 gallon and get the long size if you can (the stores don't always stock this one though).

Do you have biomedia that's been sitting in your DT ready to put in the QT filter?

 

[Max125g]

nothing in my current DT has been QT'd, everything is healthy as can be. I'm calling it luck which is why i brought up this in the first place, i would rather not chance it and be 100% sure.

As they say, it's not a matter of "if" its a matter of "when" if you introduce wild fish directly into your DT with no qt... right?

i just thought the DD procedures far exceed what i will ever do so why not go right in DT?

 

[Kelz88]

Even with DD fish, you should still QT them. Do you already have fish in your DT? If so have they been QTed?

I didnt even think of this, if your treating for ich, its useless unless all fish were QT'd. Since healthy fish can carry the ich and as long as they are stress free they wont show symptoms.

 

[Kelz88]

Stress from shipping can bring things out that werent noticeable at first. Esp at the divers den, they get moved around a little fast.

 

[Max125g]

I was reading that Diver's Den QT process the other day. It does sound like they do a good job of making sure they don't have anything. And if you did not treat your current fish for ich, maybe you are most interested in keeping out other more obvious diseases. But I think most people will tell you don't trust anyone - not your LFS, not LA, no one who says a fish is okay without doing your own QT.

I treated 5 small fish in a 30 gal QT with Cupramine, and I had to do a lot of water changes to keep the water good. If you're not doing meds you will have a much easier time. If I were you I'd get at least a 30 gallon and get the long size if you can (the stores don't always stock this one though).

Do you have biomedia that's been sitting in your DT ready to put in the QT filter?

actually.... i do have some media. I buy pods from reefs2go to keep my refugium stocked for my mandarin/wrasse's and they come in these square filter pads that just collect in my fuge until i take them out. I'll throw a few of those in there along with a few pieces of rubble from my sump (knowing it won't go back into display after) just to increase the bacteria.

should i put a powerhead in the QT if i'm using the 55g to give it more flow?

also, i noticed that the information here:
https://www.livingreefs.com/sargassum-triggerfish-t20510.html
is not correct. They have very general Trigger info and not specific about this species, which is not aggressive, mostly reef safe (never a 100% guarantee) and is more of an herbivore vs carnivore. Not sure if anybody wants to report that to somebody who could change it. They are said to be one of the few "reef safe" trigger's available, and most beautiful if you ask me ;)

 

[BL1]

nothing in my current DT has been QT'd, everything is healthy as can be. I'm calling it luck which is why i brought up this in the first place, i would rather not chance it and be 100% sure.

As they say, it's not a matter of "if" its a matter of "when" if you introduce wild fish directly into your DT with no qt... right?

i just thought the DD procedures far exceed what i will ever do so why not go right in DT?

If you haven't QTed any of your current fish, and don't plan on it then there's no reason to QT the ones coming in now. The fish may be healthy in your tank now but, they do have parasites in there and there are diseases it's just that your fish are healthy enough to keep them from getting sick right now.

DD does list a pretty good process but, when you start spending lots of money on fish do you really want to trust someone else to make sure your tank has been treated?

 

[BL1]

actually.... i do have some media. I buy pods from reefs2go to keep my refugium stocked for my mandarin/wrasse's and they come in these square filter pads that just collect in my fuge until i take them out. I'll throw a few of those in there along with a few pieces of rubble from my sump (knowing it won't go back into display after) just to increase the bacteria.

should i put a powerhead in the QT if i'm using the 55g to give it more flow?

also, i noticed that the information here:
https://www.livingreefs.com/sargassum-triggerfish-t20510.html
is not correct. They have very general Trigger info and not specific about this species, which is not aggressive, mostly reef safe (never a 100% guarantee) and is more of an herbivore vs carnivore. Not sure if anybody wants to report that to somebody who could change it. They are said to be one of the few "reef safe" trigger's available, and most beautiful if you ask me ;)

Most of that info came from here, Red Tail Triggerfish
While they do eat herbivore foods, Triggers teeth are constantly growing so they need hard shelled inverts in their diets too keep their teeth worn down.

 

[justanotherfishhead]

should i put a powerhead in the QT if i'm using the 55g to give it more flow?

Yes, you can't go wrong with a powerhead in there, will only help the filtration process. Some say its not necessary but I would.

 

[justanotherfishhead]

If you have not treated your other fish for ich, there is a very good chance they have it but don't show symptoms so there's not point in treating new fish for ich in a QT. But IMO you should still QT new fish. Even if you have ich already, there are other diseases like Marine Velvet that a new fish could bring in and all your fish could die. Just observe them for 4 weeks to make sure they don't have something else. Just my :twocents:

 

[Bifferwine]

I agree with the others. If you have existing fish in your tank that were never quarantined and treated, there is no point in quarantining and treating new additions. I gurantee that any non-quarantined/treated fish is a carrier of ich (that may not be showing symptoms) so if you quarantine and treat your new fish, they will just get any diseases or parasites from their new tankmates that were never quarantined. Quarantine is not effective unless it is done for every single fish in the system. If you do half of your fish and not the other half, they will just pass any diseases back and forth.

 

[justanotherfishhead]

Question for you guys - do you think getting fish from LA/DD is a lot safer than getting them from the average LFS?

 

[Max125g]

I agree with the others. If you have existing fish in your tank that were never quarantined and treated, there is no point in quarantining and treating new additions. I gurantee that any non-quarantined/treated fish is a carrier of ich (that may not be showing symptoms) so if you quarantine and treat your new fish, they will just get any diseases or parasites from their new tankmates that were never quarantined. Quarantine is not effective unless it is done for every single fish in the system. If you do half of your fish and not the other half, they will just pass any diseases back and forth.

You know it makes sense and i never thought of it that way until this thread. So from a ICK standpoint it makes no sense to waste the money on new filters, water, salt, heater and my time to set up the 55g just for these 3 fish. BUT on the other hand other diseases/parasites and/or behavioral problems could be present on the new fish so i might as well QT them, right? is that the general consensus? I hope so because i already bought a new filter, 50g R/O, salt, PVC fittings and took the time to set it and i'm going to QT those new guys or i guess i have 55g of saltwater standing by for a water change.

Also, say i do QT them regardless to look out for other diseases and/or behavioral problems and i don't see anything wrong with them after 2 weeks. Say there was also no medications put in the water during this time. Do i discard that water or can i use it for my DT. Granted it will have some waste in the water from the 3 fish i was QTing, but it can't amount for too much in 55g of water and i would rather not just waste it. Just asking :)

 

[Max125g]

You know it makes sense and i never thought of it that way until this thread. So from a ICK standpoint it makes no sense to waste the money on new filters, water, salt, heater and my time to set up the 55g just for these 3 fish. BUT on the other hand other diseases/parasites and/or behavioral problems could be present on the new fish so i might as well QT them, right? is that the general consensus? I hope so because i already bought a new filter, 50g R/O, salt, PVC fittings and took the time to set it and i'm going to QT those new guys or i guess i have 55g of saltwater standing by for a water change.

Also, say i do QT them regardless to look out for other diseases and/or behavioral problems and i don't see anything wrong with them after 2 weeks. Say there was also no medications put in the water during this time. Do i discard that water or can i use it for my DT. Granted it will have some waste in the water from the 3 fish i was QTing, but it can't amount for too much in 55g of water and i would rather not just waste it. Just asking :)

Might as well post a pic of the fish that made me start this thread, mainly because i want to show him off a bit :) Been looking for one on the smaller side for some time now and when I saw this guy on Diver’s Den at under 5” I jumped on it. Not the 2-3” I wanted but 4 and ¾” isn’t too big and should be a good size to jump in and settle down without aggravating to many other fish. He will be the largest fish in the tank, maybe my Malarus (spelling) Wrasse is about 4-5” but he hides most of the time anyways.

Since this was from the Diver's Den and not LA, this is supposed to be an exact WYSIWYG picture of the Trigger, looks like great colors to me