Test Kit Reccomendations

[JAG107]

If you're too cheap for a reactor, a fine mesh media bag with GFO (Grannular Ferrous Oxide) phosphate media (phosban is one) in a high flow area of your sump would work, just not as effectively as a reactor. I use Warner Marine's, also Eco Phos is good

 

[bigploch]

Ok, Thanks for all of the great info so far. Here are a few more for you...

What are the advantages to testing for iodide/iodine?
Boron?
Copper?
Silicate?

 

[JAG107]

IDK about Boron copper or silicate testing, I've never had a reason to test for those.
If your inverts are dying mysteriously, then I'd say maybe a copper test should be done to be safe, but not necessary as a regular test IMHO

 

[Bifferwine]

A copper test really only needs to be done in the beginning when you first set up your tank, to find out if your rocks, sand or water are contaminated (and then, only if you get your rocks and sand from someone else's tank).

You will only need to test for those other things if you are using additives to increase them. Most people don't, because salt mixes contain a balance of those elements, so as long as you're doing water changes, those trace elements should be in the right concentration in your tank.

Those test kits aren't really necessary for the functioning of a basic tank.

 

[dustin_P74]

i agree with the posts above, those tests are really only there to get more money out of you

 

[wontonflip]

I use the API, the one that comes with ammonia, ph, nitrites, and a nitrates test. CHECK THE DATE!!! I just NOW found out that my nitrates were testing at 20ppm more than what it really was --- I found this out when I brought my water sample and tested it side by side with the store's own test kit. Then we tested a third tube with a fresh box (API), and it closely matched the store's tes.