I've a 150g tank with 2 cascade 1500 canister filters, an rifugerium, and a protien skimmer. Everything is hanging off the back of my tank. I want to clean it up alittle so I was thinking of getting a tank [30g or so] to put under my tank to run thing in. My question is does that sound like a good idea, or should I get a sump system. What would be the advantage of the sump.
should I sump or not
- Thread starter kjm
- Start date
cthegame
Reef enthusiast
The advantage sump would be the largest you can fit under your stand. Yes, i would definitely recommend a big sump for a 150 gal, make the DT more visually appealing by getting rid of all the equipment.
Piggy
Reef enthusiast
Have to agree. I also would do a sump. You'll be glad you did.
yote
In Memoriam
Cant go wrong with a sump.And you can build your own cheaper than you can buy one.But either way works.
Teixeira29
Live Rock Fish only
I just changed over to a sump/refigium. Much better results now. I still run the canister filter with media once in while. After water changes to clean up the water!
Hornet
Reefing newb
you have the 4ft 150 or a 6ft? either way I say go for the sump.
IraqVeteran
HOOAH
What do you guys think about the statement below that I pulled from this website..
http://www.fishtankshop.com/saltwateraquariumsetup.html
NOTE: Make sure that the “return” water outlet nozzle does not touch the surface of the water in the viewable aquarium above, if the sump tank in your stand is full.
If you have room for a few more gallons in your sump, you can submerge the tip of the return nozzle up to ½ inch in the viewable aquarium above (for less running water noise). Submerging the “return” water outlet nozzle too far into the viewable aquarium may permit too much water to siphon back into your sump in the case of a reverse water flow due to a power-outage to your pump, or pump failure (yes, even with a check-valve in the return water pipe).
I looked at UPS.com and noticed that my new sump, pump, overflow and skimmer arrived today (my concern and confusion still is the plumbing portion). I havent purchased any plumbing supplies yet. I figured I would tackle the sump project this weekend.
http://www.fishtankshop.com/saltwateraquariumsetup.html
NOTE: Make sure that the “return” water outlet nozzle does not touch the surface of the water in the viewable aquarium above, if the sump tank in your stand is full.
If you have room for a few more gallons in your sump, you can submerge the tip of the return nozzle up to ½ inch in the viewable aquarium above (for less running water noise). Submerging the “return” water outlet nozzle too far into the viewable aquarium may permit too much water to siphon back into your sump in the case of a reverse water flow due to a power-outage to your pump, or pump failure (yes, even with a check-valve in the return water pipe).
I looked at UPS.com and noticed that my new sump, pump, overflow and skimmer arrived today (my concern and confusion still is the plumbing portion). I havent purchased any plumbing supplies yet. I figured I would tackle the sump project this weekend.
dustin_P74
Reef enthusiast
the reason they say that is because if you run your sump with water all the way to the top and the power goes out then the return lines under the water will create a back siphon and drain the water until the level is under the return lines, so just leave some room for the tank water in the sump encase of a power outage.
Hornet
Reefing newb
Basically it is saying that if your return lines from your sump are below the water line in your DT then you need to have adequate space in your sump to support water draining from your DT down to your sump with the return pump is off. I'm not sure if your set-up has drilled returns or if your dropping the returns over the glass.
If it's drilled you want them as high as possible and you need to have enough space in the sump. If your going over the back glass you can put anti siphon holes above the water line to prevent siphoning.
You should start a tank thread for your tank if you don't already have one. I know I've seen something else about your tank but I can't find it right now.
If it's drilled you want them as high as possible and you need to have enough space in the sump. If your going over the back glass you can put anti siphon holes above the water line to prevent siphoning.
You should start a tank thread for your tank if you don't already have one. I know I've seen something else about your tank but I can't find it right now.
IraqVeteran
HOOAH
I saw the above sump design on a website and the sump I bought has the skimmer section on the left then the fuge then the return. Will the sump I just described be good? And would all I need to do is have the PVC go from overflow to skimmer section in sump and PVC going from return pump back into the tank? And somewhere on the return line install a reverse flow valve and on both pipes install a valve to adjust the flow rate for "just in case"? I feel like a tard for asking these questions that sound like they have simple answers.
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IraqVeteran
HOOAH
Thanks for the info Hornet....I have a 75gal reef and it does not have baffles in the tank with drilled holes. When I bought the tank I just wanted it for a FOWL. I since changed my mind and converted to a reef tank. Anyway....I will start a thread like you suggest once I start the project this weekend. I've been doing FO and FOWL SW aquariums for like 8 or 9 years now but when it comes to the reef setups you folks have the knowledge and I appreciate all of the advice. I am very new to the sump game. It looked easy but I soon realized after researching it that it isnt just as simple as throwing it under the tank and going about my business. The plumbing portion has my head going crazy because I have seen many different things in sumps and I want to do it right from the start.
Hornet
Reefing newb
I just went through plumbing my new system and I agree its terrible on the nerves once you start thinking about all the water that could end up on the floor.
The sump you ordered will be fine. People change the location of the Fuge and Return sections around sometimes to achieve a separate flow rate through the Fuge while maintaining a higher rate in though the skimmer > return section. If you want some goly gee whiz info here's link to melv's site. He does an excellent job explaining different sump set-ups.
The sump you ordered will be fine. People change the location of the Fuge and Return sections around sometimes to achieve a separate flow rate through the Fuge while maintaining a higher rate in though the skimmer > return section. If you want some goly gee whiz info here's link to melv's site. He does an excellent job explaining different sump set-ups.
IraqVeteran
HOOAH
Thanks Hornet....that was a pretty good site. It helped make some sense in understanding the different sump layouts. The one I bought just so happened to be disigned the way I described skimmer-fuge-return
I will take some pics of the equipment when I get home today and post it up on a thread in tank showcase I suppose. I think thats where it needs to be done right?
Bifferwine
I am a girl
That quote is true, but easily fixable. Drill a small hole in each outlet, which will break any back siphon. Or use a one-way valve in the return line to stop any back siphon.
IraqVeteran
HOOAH
where would the hole be drilled at exactly with what I will have?
daugherty
part time reefer
the little red line shows were mine is drilled at. different setup than yours but same idea just make shure the hole is above water
IraqVeteran
HOOAH
so that little hole is on the return pipe going back into the tank? So on mine I would put the little hole anywhere on the pipe as long as it is above the water line in the tank and over the main tank water? So when the return is working a little bit of water will come out of that hole right? But when the power goes out it allow for a vacuum to not take place and suck water into the sump in the return pipe?
Should I do this in conjunction with a one way valve?
Should I do this in conjunction with a one way valve?
