2008pollyanna
Reefing newb
Hi, for all you RO DI users, can you tell me what to look for when I purchase a unit? Need your experience and dos and donts.
Thanks
B&S
Thanks
B&S
RO DI info desired
- Thread starter 2008pollyanna
- Start date
messiah023
Reefing newb
You should look for a unit that you can readily find replacement filters for.
You will change filters about every 6 months. Some "ebay" units will be hard to find filters for, unless you buy from a dealer that supplies both the RO/DI & the filters.
Even though a RO/DI specifies xx gallons per day, you will not make xx gallons per day very fast. The higher the rating on gpd, the better. I would suggest 100-150 for best results. If you have low pressure lines, you may want to consider a power pump before the RO/DI unit for increased production.
I would suggest an RO/DI unit with CLEAR canister covers. You will be able to see the condition of the filters inside and better gauge your changeouts.
Whatever you decide, make sure you test the RO/DI water before you mix salt. Make sure you are at 0 ppm in the output water (phosphate / copper / etc).
Good luck!
You will change filters about every 6 months. Some "ebay" units will be hard to find filters for, unless you buy from a dealer that supplies both the RO/DI & the filters.
Even though a RO/DI specifies xx gallons per day, you will not make xx gallons per day very fast. The higher the rating on gpd, the better. I would suggest 100-150 for best results. If you have low pressure lines, you may want to consider a power pump before the RO/DI unit for increased production.
I would suggest an RO/DI unit with CLEAR canister covers. You will be able to see the condition of the filters inside and better gauge your changeouts.
Whatever you decide, make sure you test the RO/DI water before you mix salt. Make sure you are at 0 ppm in the output water (phosphate / copper / etc).
Good luck!
2008pollyanna
Reefing newb
Thankyou,
So, what tests do you all feel I should have? And, I imagine I need to add back in elements...like...calcium, iodine, and what else are you all adding back in...and again tests will show this correct? I test before the salt is added. Oh boy, more to learn. Life is good....
Thanks
B&S
So, what tests do you all feel I should have? And, I imagine I need to add back in elements...like...calcium, iodine, and what else are you all adding back in...and again tests will show this correct? I test before the salt is added. Oh boy, more to learn. Life is good....
Thanks
B&S
Rcpilot
Reef enthusiast
Best advice I can give you on RO units is-- Buy a GOOD one.
You don't have to buy those $300 units sold by Foster Smith.
I bought a 6-stage unit from www.filterdirect.com with a pump for around $200. Biff bought one from them (I think) on an Ebay auction. She got hers a LOT cheaper than I did.
It has:
1st stage - sediment filter
2nd stage - carbon filter
3rd stage - carbon filter
4th stage - RO membrane
5th stage - De ionizing resin
6th stage - De ionizing resin
Works good with the pump. Mine is rated at 110g per day and with the pump, it puts out right at that amount. Makes about 5g per hour.
Get a flush valve with your RO unit. The flush valve lets water pass over the RO membrane and knocks loose junk off the filter--preventing it from becoming clogged with sediment and other gunk. You flip it open for about a minute to flush the membrane and then shut it off to make RO water. I flush my membrane for 45 seconds after every 5g of water. Basically, when I'm done making water for the day, I flush the membrane. I think this has increased my water output to maximum capacity. Before I got the flush valve, it was taking about 2 or 3 hrs to make 5g of water. I know it was clogged because after installing the flush valve and flushing for 5 minutes initially, my water production went back to the rated capacity.
After you make the RO water, you'll add the salt mix of your choice and let it mix up overnight. Then run a full spectrum of tests on it. Test for copper, nitrates, pH, calcium, Alkalinity, phosphates, iodide etc
Once you have a BASELINE for where your salt is at after mixing, you can decide to dose it up or leave it alone and just put it in the tank.
I use a small powerhead and a heater in my mixing bucket. Let it sit overnight to fully dissolve and mix up. Allow it to come up to the right temp (match the tank temp). Test salinity.
I try and match the water in my mixing bucket as close to the tank as I can get it. That way when I do a water change, the fish and corals don't get shocked. Hopefully, they don't even notice it.
You don't have to buy those $300 units sold by Foster Smith.
I bought a 6-stage unit from www.filterdirect.com with a pump for around $200. Biff bought one from them (I think) on an Ebay auction. She got hers a LOT cheaper than I did.
It has:
1st stage - sediment filter
2nd stage - carbon filter
3rd stage - carbon filter
4th stage - RO membrane
5th stage - De ionizing resin
6th stage - De ionizing resin
Works good with the pump. Mine is rated at 110g per day and with the pump, it puts out right at that amount. Makes about 5g per hour.
Get a flush valve with your RO unit. The flush valve lets water pass over the RO membrane and knocks loose junk off the filter--preventing it from becoming clogged with sediment and other gunk. You flip it open for about a minute to flush the membrane and then shut it off to make RO water. I flush my membrane for 45 seconds after every 5g of water. Basically, when I'm done making water for the day, I flush the membrane. I think this has increased my water output to maximum capacity. Before I got the flush valve, it was taking about 2 or 3 hrs to make 5g of water. I know it was clogged because after installing the flush valve and flushing for 5 minutes initially, my water production went back to the rated capacity.
After you make the RO water, you'll add the salt mix of your choice and let it mix up overnight. Then run a full spectrum of tests on it. Test for copper, nitrates, pH, calcium, Alkalinity, phosphates, iodide etc
Once you have a BASELINE for where your salt is at after mixing, you can decide to dose it up or leave it alone and just put it in the tank.
I use a small powerhead and a heater in my mixing bucket. Let it sit overnight to fully dissolve and mix up. Allow it to come up to the right temp (match the tank temp). Test salinity.
I try and match the water in my mixing bucket as close to the tank as I can get it. That way when I do a water change, the fish and corals don't get shocked. Hopefully, they don't even notice it.
NewbReefer
Reefing newb
you will also need a TDS meter (Total Disolved Solids meter) this measures how pure the water is, the more total disolved solids the more poluted the water. for instance my tap water reads at about 150 with my TDS meter. after i run that water through my filter it reads about 2 total disolved solids on the meter. hope that makes sense. If you've got a TDS meter you'll know when you need to change the filter membrane's cause once your water coming out of the RO/DI filter reads at about 10 TDS you'll need to change them soon.
NewbReefer
Reefing newb
Forgot to mention the simple TDS meters are cheap. I found one on ebay for about $15 and it's held up great for a year.
Bifferwine
I am a girl
I bought a 6-stage, 100 gallon per day unit off of Ebay. The website of the vendor is www.purewaterclub.com. I HIGHLY recommend this unit. It cost me less than $100, including shipping. You will NEED a TDS meter if you are going to make your own water. Having a TDS meter is the only way to check that your RODI unit is working properly and if the filters need changing. I bought a TDS meter off of Ebay for $20, and checked it against the TDS meters at the lab I work in at the University, and it works fine.
With my RODI unit, the TDS of the tap water going in runs 400 to 500. When I test the output, it's always less than 5. It works great.
Once you add salt to the RODI water, that will replenish your trace elements. Stuff like pH, alkalinity and calcium may have to be adjusted by using additives or buffers. But the other stuff is mixed in the sea salt in ample quantities.
For top off water (to compensate for evaporation), you will not need to add anything, just use the fresh RODI water straight.
With my RODI unit, the TDS of the tap water going in runs 400 to 500. When I test the output, it's always less than 5. It works great.
Once you add salt to the RODI water, that will replenish your trace elements. Stuff like pH, alkalinity and calcium may have to be adjusted by using additives or buffers. But the other stuff is mixed in the sea salt in ample quantities.
For top off water (to compensate for evaporation), you will not need to add anything, just use the fresh RODI water straight.
You get what you pay for. I only recommend systems that come with full sized filter housings that accept full sized filters, for sediment, carbon and DI cartridges a like. I imagine Purewaterclub also has good deals on RO systems with the better full sized filters, instead of the little in-line filters, at reasonable prices. I do not recommend renting a U-Haul trailer to return a library book, nor would I recommend riding a tricycle in a triathlon. You get what you pay for.
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Bifferwine
I am a girl
Yes, I got what I paid for. I paid $100 for a unit that works great, and has worked great from the beginning. This is especially convincing, because of how bad my tap water is from the start and because of how much water I make each week.
You got a system made up of small filters that had to be doubled uo because they are so small. They fill up quick enough when full sized, your are smaller than full sized. Prefilters, carbon filters and DI filters have limited capacity. Larger filters dollar for dollar have greater capacities than a multitude of small filters. Any thing purchased to be used over a period of a long time should have that figured into its value, not just the original purchase price and whether it functions well initially. A filter when made properly needs only four stages: 1) sediment filter 2) carbon filter 3) RO membrane 4) DI filter. Yours has six stages because the filters used in the different stages are of lesser quality than even they consider acceptable so they doubled them up. So you do not really have a six stage filter but a hobbled together four stage filter. The key point is its hobbled together out of small parts thta have to be used inmultiples. Thtats poor, cheap, substandard design meant to sell something as cheap as possible, not meant to produce a quality product.
