Refugium/Sump Overflowing?

Hiker4twenty

Reef enthusiast
I have a bit of an issue/concern/fear of running a fuge. I built a 10g fuge for my brother, but he does not want to use it. He wants a HOB fuge instead. So I have this 10g fuge laying around my house and might want to use it. I too was thinking about a HOB fuge, but I'm sure the 10g would be better. Anyway, back to the point of this thread. I live in the mountains and have frequent power outages, especially in the winter. I'm concerned that during one of these outages my fuge will overflow and make a mess for me to clean up. Can this happen? Are there any ways to make sure that it does not happen? I don't know much about a fuge.
 
Is this going on your 14g or your 29g?

I have a 20g display with a 10 gallon sump and have only had 1 flooding problem and it was the display not the sump.

If you only fill the sump/fuge about 3/4 full and your using an overflow box that is pretty close to the surface you will not flood your sump.

However in the case a siphon fails and your return pump is too deep you could very likely overflow your display tank.

There are other little tricks and things you can do to prevent both things from happening (power outtage or siphon failure) and I'm sure some more experienced people will chime in. Just keep an eye on it and you should be ok.
 
Sig,

It will be going on the 29g. The way I built the fuge there is not that much water in the pump seciont. It allows for only about 5-6" deep of water...probably about 2 gals. I mine as well use the 10g fuge since I already have it.
 
As long as dont overfill the sump/fuge,you wont have any problems with it flooding.
When you set it up,start with just enough water to keep the return pump from sucking air.Then unplug the pump and see where the water level in the sump is when the water stops draining from the display.Make sure you have at least that much room between the water level with the pump on and the top of the tank.
 
You can also install a valve on the water coming from the tank to the sump, close it, and that will cause the pump to pump out the sump (pump area only) and this will cause your main to fill up, or overflow. You want to set your skimmer so that you have room to overflow as well. Its pretty easy, just takes a little adjusting. I would start with the skimmer about 1 1/2 inches from the tank rim, and fill your sump to about 3/4 full. If you unplug your pump you will see the water come down the return line, so you need to set it close to the surface, it should suck air and break the siphon, if not adjust that. Likewise closing the valve from the skimmer to the sump will simulate a loss of siphon or clo, and you can see what happens there as well. We can help....
 
Y'all are making it too hard. :nanananan

Do Not Put Water In The Sump.


Fill the tank. Keep filling the tank until it overflows (through your drain lines) into the sump. Keep on filling it and letting the sump fill from the tank draining into it. When the sump level gets 1" from the very top - STOP filling.

Now plug in your return pump. Let the pump suck the sump down and fill the return line. Wait about 2 minutes to make sure it's all circulated and evened out. Now put a mark on the sump where the water level is after it's stable.

Done. Do your daily RO top-off to that mark in the sump or set your float to that level if you have an auto top-off.

Wanna test it? Unplug the pump. It won't overflow. :Cheers:
 
so do you have an overflow box, and what kind of return pump are you using?

I don't have anything yet besides the 10g fuge tank. I have all the sections siliconed in place. I was thinking about an overflow in the range of 300gph. I'm not sure about the pump yet. I've looked into a few different models. I probably wont have it up and running until after Christmas...I'll be broke until then. :grumble:
 
Y'all are making it too hard. :nanananan

Do Not Put Water In The Sump.

Fill the tank. Keep filling the tank until it overflows (through your drain lines) into the sump. Keep on filling it and letting the sump fill from the tank draining into it. When the sump level gets 1" from the very top - STOP filling.

Now plug in your return pump. Let the pump suck the sump down and fill the return line. Wait about 2 minutes to make sure it's all circulated and evened out. Now put a mark on the sump where the water level is after it's stable.

Done. Do your daily RO top-off to that mark in the sump or set your float to that level if you have an auto top-off.

Wanna test it? Unplug the pump. It won't overflow. :Cheers:

RC,

My tank is not drilled so I'll have to be using an overflow. Will this way still work?
 
yep, RC's way of doing it works for overflow boxes or drilled tanks just the same...

I live out in the country as well, and power outtages out here are a daily occourence, my sump never overflows...

the other thing that you might think about, do your setup as RC describes, and then as a second layer of protection, get yourself a computer UPS, put it somewhere it will stay dry, and plug the pump into that like i did, that way when the power goes out, yea your lights and some powerheads stop, but the main return pump will stay on... thats enought flow to keep the fish alive for a few hours, and its gas exchange, and some flow, and plus if the pump never stops, then you really dont have a problem, now do you? :)
 
yep, RC's way of doing it works for overflow boxes or drilled tanks just the same...

I live out in the country as well, and power outtages out here are a daily occourence, my sump never overflows...

the other thing that you might think about, do your setup as RC describes, and then as a second layer of protection, get yourself a computer UPS, put it somewhere it will stay dry, and plug the pump into that like i did, that way when the power goes out, yea your lights and some powerheads stop, but the main return pump will stay on... thats enought flow to keep the fish alive for a few hours, and its gas exchange, and some flow, and plus if the pump never stops, then you really dont have a problem, now do you? :)

Great idea Project:mrgreen:
 
But before you use his method you have to make sure your overflow box is at the correct level and adjusted properly. When I first hooked mine up I had the box sitting way to high above the surface so the water moved really slow and bubbles would build up, I then realized it needed to be pretty much at the surface but this means more water will be allowed to drain when the return pump is switched off, so just keep that in mind. I have a 10 gallon sump for my 55 gallon tank and since I have everything adjusted right I have no problems with overflowing ever.
 
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