Ramora skimmer & marineland lights?

tankedchemist

Reef enthusiast
I'm starting to collect pieces for my next tank-- which will be a 75G reef tank. My LFS had a remora pro skimmer that they recommended (rated for 120g)-- anyone have opinions on these? (The one at the LFS looked like this).

Also, they recommended a fixture & lights from Marineland, 4 t5 bulbs. I know lots of people use the nova extremes, so is there a particular reason -not- to use marineland? (It's almost half the cost of the Nova fixture).

Thanks!!!
 
Theres a reason the Marineland fixture is half the price of the Nova Pros.Its right at half the wattage and just has a single reflector.
The Nova Pro 48" fixture has 6 54 watt bulbs with individual reflectors.With the Marineland,you'd be lucky to have enough light for mushrooms.If you get the Nova pros,then you can keep any coral,clam,or anemone you want and not have to worry if you have enough light.
 
I also wouldn't recommend the Remora Pro. Although I have it and it works well, I'd say its at about its max on my 46G. Not all is lost though, Octopus has some great HOB skimmers in the same price range that will work alot better and quieter. check out the BH-800S.

As far as lights, the Novas are the least expensive acceptable light you can buy, IMHO. I wouldn't go any cheaper.

The skimmer and the lights, in my opinion should be where you spend your cash.
 
if you're PLANNING the build on a 75g reef tank why don't you either buy a reef ready tank, or have the tank drilled so you can sump it. You will have FAR more options on skimmers, and be able to get a much better skimmer for the same price or less.

Not trying to step on anyone's toes... but it just my personal opinion that a properly designed reef uses a sump, nothing HOB.

Don't get any T5 fixture that does not have individual reflectors, and by that I mean one that is able to focus the light of each bulb individually. You will pay a tad bit more, but you'll thank yourself for it.
 
I do plan to have a sump-- but I don't want to drill the tank, 'cause I can't find anyone locally who will do it. The LFS guy showed me some overflow systems that they use to connect the sump to DT, which doesn't require drilling. I had planned on putting that remora into the sump.... it's packaged as HOB or in-sump use. is that wrong?
 
I do plan to have a sump-- but I don't want to drill the tank, 'cause I can't find anyone locally who will do it. The LFS guy showed me some overflow systems that they use to connect the sump to DT, which doesn't require drilling. I had planned on putting that remora into the sump.... it's packaged as HOB or in-sump use. is that wrong?

you are correct. Drilling a tank is actually not difficult at all. I will guarantee there are MANY hobbyists in your area who would do it for you for free. And any decent LFS will drill it for something like 10 or 20 bucks per hole.

Overflow boxes are bulky, expensive, and prone to failure. (I don't want to hear the "had one for 20 years and it hasn't failed yet" responses, the bottom line is they will fail long before a simple hole will.) Overflow boxes IMO are designed as a way to sump a tank when it wasn't originally planned to be sumped.

Don't be afraid to have a DT drilled, it's not as scary as it seems. You just need to make sure it's not tempered. There are many easy ways to determine that. If you're considering a remora for use in a sump, then what you actually want is the urchin. Same thing, but designed for sump use.

My last tank used an urchin with a mag-3, but it was only 60g, and I only used it because I got it dirt cheap used :P

For example, MAP on a remora/urchin with an MJ1200 is 164, 20-75g of water... more realistically 50 max (IMO) for $150 you can get a Reef Octopus Needlewheel 110 that will handle a max of 100g (75-90g IMO)
 
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5XpHos4SLs&feature=related[/ame]

extremely easy, as you can see! if you don't have a garden hose with cold water, you can fill up a pitcher of water, run a siphon from 1/8" airline tube directly onto the spinning bit, use of something like silly putty to make a ring 1" around the hole to keep water on the entire bit helps.

What you can't see is that he starts at a slight angle, and once he gets a groove going in the glass, he begins to bring the drill more level. I would recommend marking the location of your hole, as well as putting duct tape on the inside over the hole to reduce vibration. (vibration and the bouncing of the bit is what breaks glass.

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my cube, if I can drill holes, so can you :P
 
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