Plumbing do's and donts

M

M3AN ONE

Reefing newb
About to start purchasing plumbing parts for my 300 dd and need to know what to buy and aprox how much.
So far I know I need to get at least 1 check valve and intend on setting up 2 water drums in which to do water changeds with. These will also need plumbing parts as well.
Assistance will be much apreciated.
 
It all depends on your layout as far as how much, but to start you'll need 90* ells (elbows), a couple couplings, pipe, probably a couple unions, (true union ball valves are unions and valves in one), misc ball valves, primer, glue. thats to start. My system is plumbed in 1-1/4" pvc.
 
I would think a little more about using a check valve. Could cause you more headaches in the long run if it fails. I was going to use a check valve when setting up my system and decided against it, just one more thing that can fail in the system.
 
No check valves. They fail way too often.
You need a siphon break at the top of your return plumbing. For instance, my return lines end just below the surface of the water in my tank. This gives me surface agitation for better co2 exchange and when the pump shuts down the water level in my tank only drops about an inch. You could also drill a small hole just above the water line.

You want as little 90 degree elbows as possible. Better to use two 45's for less restriction. Unions, unions, unions. Use them everywhere. They allow easy dismantling when needed and allow you to twist/rotate plumbing a bit when assembling. Definitely put them before and after your pumps for easy maintenance. I like to use True Union Ball Valves after the return. The union is integrated and the valve allows me to adjust flow if needed. Anywhere i need a valve I use true union ball valves. Unless i need the precision of a gate valve in which case I just add a union to each side.

Make sure you use a primer before applying your cement.
Apply and then push/twist the parts together. The twist ensures a solid water tight seal. Hold for a few seconds.

Bulk Reef Supply has some great videos on their website that talks about a lot of this stuff.
 
If you hardware store has them, you can get sweep 90s. They have a gentle radius. I have also used 90s for electrical PVC conduit. However, they seem to have a wider range for tolerance so sometimes they don't fit tight. I just used more glue. Never had any problems, but doesn't mean it might not leak
 
M3AN ONE said:
Do you have a picture of what you are describing? And why can't you do both?
Click to expand...

Check valves will fail. It's not a matter of it, its a matter of when. It will probably be during a power outage when you aren't around, so you come home to your tank on the floor. The best method is a siphon break. I would also echo what Dennis said - if you ever think you'll need to disassemble a portion of your plumbing, use true union ball valves. I was a total newb when I set up my first system and I didnt use them. It was a MAJOR pain to take out the return or skimmer pumps for service. I eventually added unions to the return pump, but I haven't done the skimmer pump yet, mostly because of the huge pain it will be.

Don't make the mistake I did, use unions wherever possible
 
Flow is more crucial when picking pipe size than tank size. What is your overflow and return pump rated for?
 
Hopefully I'm not hijacking the thread by asking this, but regarding check valves failing:

I do have one on one of my return lines (and intend to put one on the other return as well). I don't rely on these to stop any flooding, as my sump can handle the inch or two that does back-siphon when the pumps turn off. The only reason I am using them is to stop the water level in the tank from lowering, just cause I can. ;)

When these fail, is it only that they stick open? If that's the case I'm not worried, I just don't wanna turn off the pump some day to do something and turn it back on to find the check valve stuck closed.
 
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^My overflows are rated to for 700 each (total 1400) and my sump pump is rated for 1900 but with 3 feet of head 1500. I have 2 mp60's to supplement flow inside my tank.
My goal is to have a seemingly simple plumbing design. I know easier said then done.
I have a internal sump pump and I want to set it up so that if I have to make adjustments to the flow rate of my return with relative ease. I want to be able to divert the excess flow to my fuge so I do not damage or shorten the life of my pump.
I plan on using a check valve as well as a siphon break.
but my question is should I have true union valve only on the return chamber or also on the plumbing going into the first chamber and if so why so?
 
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I also hear the term manifold from time to time and would like to know what that means.
Also I see that many people set up there reactors to connect to the plumbing and would like to know where that connection occurs.
 
Here's my manifold. It's a way to feed reactors or whatever else by teeing off the main section of plumbing, in my case my return line.

7367133274_786aa3938b_o.jpg


7634033126_14027956f4_o.jpg
 
Now how do I set up the manifold if I have 2 return lines? Why Is it that you are only using 1return? The guy at my lfs suggested I do the same. Should my manifold have a fitting for easy water changes ( getting water out of the tank)
 
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Do you have 3 equal size drain holes? That's what is needed for a bean setup. Plus your return line.
 
^Yes my overflows are internal will that be a problem? Also what size plumbing should I run for optimum flow my overflow bulk heads are 1 and 3/4 inches
 
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