Mega Powerfull Mechanical Filtration algae removal

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I start understanding now why some other users are no longer posting here and their status is "excluded" yu only keep here people that sing in the same chorus with you!

Once again, you have no idea what you are talking about.

In all my years as a moderator, I have only ever banned two people from this site. One person was banned because he was sending threatening and harassing PMs to a lot of members, and the other person was banned because he posted pictures of dead and mutilated bodies.

If you really feel that way, perhaps you will feel more at home on another reefing site. I recommend Reef Central Online Community. Have fun!
 
Not quite yet. I just spent the last two hours going through all 200 posts this buffoon has ever made. And just because I'm feeling quite productive today, I thought I would do as he asked and quote some of the BS he has spewed directly. Let's call it a "Greatest Hits" post. Keep in mind, all this is said by someone with a grand total of TWO MONTHS experience in this hobby.

First, some background on his tank:

Hi, i am new in Marine tank upkeep. Been already a month. I have a 90 gallons tank with 70 watt of light.

Fish; I have two Clown's, 6 dampsey's, one cleaner.
Inverebrates; star fish 3 small ones, sea urchins two, 3 hemmit crabs, one anemone.

Corals, one leather coral, one soft coral, two disk corals, one (don't know its name), and some (regular ..... sea buttons???)

so far everything ok, my anemone eats shrimp, it shits (pardon) daily. It expands and shrinks well. I' dunno, the light even if it seems to be low, my tank is with 70 watt. (the tube says was made in Germany) i've read somewhere the kelvin's are important not the watts.

He thinks he can just easily scoop out a dead anemone. Ha!

ok thanks for all these infos but from all of them my understanding is to bring back the anemone. Let's put the worse before; If the anemone is dying it can be remove before going in putrefaction and i guess the tank will not be affected.

And he’s also an expert in aquarium lighting! All of us are really killing our corals with light! OH NOES.

a metal halide isn't indicated because of ultraviolet radiations that can kill corals. Deep in the sea there isn't much light. Corals do great in strong light and multiplying until a point where they just stop. Their life spawn is reduced this way (this i know for sure from a marine biologist)they also prefer medium light close to their underwater spectrum which is actinic red and blue which provides ultraviolet in small quantities and phosphates

the ultraviolet radiation of metal halide kills corals. This is what i was pointing out.

Please explain why, my tank lighting, in my house, which routinely has room temperatures in the mid-80s, still manages to work just fine?

all the fluorescentic tubes are designed only to operate within the -40 and +80 celsius temperature range.

Yes, because we all know what a great job natural sunlight does for reef tanks…

if you must pay a few hundred dollars to run the lights in a 240 galons fish tank you must change the country!
Like in Canada there isn't such think as paying electricity if you rent a place, everything is included. if you do own a house i've never heard someone to pay more than 40-50$ monthly on electricity.
Isn't better than to just place the aquarium in a sunny place so you can get everything for free?


I’m not sure you’ve ever even seen pictures of a coral reef.

I am not sure if anyone of you have done scuba diving. To see corals and marine life in the middle of the day you need powerfull light reflectors. Those corals are taken from those places and added in your tanks where they are getting 10 times more light than in their natural habit. Of course they will do fine and it''ll be like an explossion of happines but it'll only last less than normal

Here, a genius at work!

I hope you know that one of the fastest methods to cycle your tank is to ad fishes in the beginning. They are caled suicidal fish. But as long as you keep ammonia and nitrates down they will survive very well.

And he has a 2-day old tank full of fish. GENIUS I SAY!

Now my question would be, since my tank is 2 days old, should i ad this now or later. I don't want to get any chances to have phosphates built in my tank. I'll be forever using nitrates and phosphates remover.I am thinking since i start feeding my fishes i must ad it now, isnt' it? I understand that the fishes shouldn't be in a newer tank but i had no other options and the "thieves" from pet stores were offering me 3$ for full grow fish.

Yes, let’s all add copper to our tanks. The inverts will love it.

1) MANY OF YOU BELIEVE THE COPPER IS BAD IN A FISH TANK WHEN IN FACT COPPER IS A METAL EXISTENT IN THE MARINE SALT. tHERE IS COPPER IN YOUR BODIES AS WELL CORALS NEED IT FOR LIVING, THE SEA WATER MUST HAVE IRON, COPPER, + MANY OTHER ELEMENTS IN ORDER TO PROVIDE BETTER HOUSE TO CORALS.

Ooooh RO water is so bad!

I am sure your corals do fine in a 0 everything reef tank. But for how long?
I am sure all of your tanks water chemistry is full of undesired trace elements, A ro water mixed with salt becomes enriched in minerals and trace elements 10 times more than the tap water.
The problems with corals are starting when no alages are left, Algae is food for corals.

i've read someone's advice about not using distilated water since beeing withouth minerals will ruin the equilibrium of the water and all its components.

The distilated water is boiled in copper containers

If that’s the case, then you should definitely drink up!

DI/R.O. water can be a problem. DI/R.O. water is considered a chronic risk.

Instead of changing water, we should just boil it all and re-use it! Don’t change water, and don’t add anything!

Ok there is a piece of advise i can provide regarding algaes

There are some myths and fats regarding this issue.

So everything starts with the water change. As long as Nitrats are safe and your fish tank is balanced keep the water. Do not change it, do not ad anything. If however you have algae and you try to ad new water with low nutrients you are wrong.
Tap water comes from metal pipes which means a lot of IROn in it. Iron provides food for algaes and adding tap water you ad life to these algaes.
take out the water from the tank and boiled, you kill as such any bacterias and algaes and you get rid of a lot of nutrients.

Wow you are sounding smarter and smarter with every post you make!

I cannot afford running an Ro /Di or distillated since this is too expensive.Right now i am using tap water which is fine because doesn't contain, phosphates, nitrates and copper. I know it may have some other metals.So i was thinking; i am currently living at the shore of Ontario's lake. Basically i just go out and fill a bucket of water.

Just dumping chlorinated water in your fish tank? Sounds like a GREAT idea!

Sometimes i have added 5 up to 10 gallons (5 -10 %) of water not dechlorinated in my fish tank. It was told me that this amount will have o effect since is mixed with the existent water.

Actually, I’m sure it won’t.

Since tests are good, can i use tap water? Also i am sure carbon will neutralize all other organic elements and some harmfull metals if existing.

Because the best solution to a problem in this hobby is to ADD MORE TAP WATER!

My tank two months old. Marine 90 gallons.
I've been previously using only Tap Water (no Ro /DI). Yesterday after the last 5 gallons of distilled water, i've realized something's wrong. There was a huge bloom of brown algaes, My anemone has pulled insight all tentacles, my disk corals are contracted, one of my sea urchin doesn't use its tenticles and refuse to climb on any rocks. Yesterday night after performing the tests, i've replaced 20% of the tank water with Tap Water.

And the only intention of a sump is to remove phosphates!

as far i have seen in reality and online documentations all sumps are having a filter media including a sponge/textile/ or else which stops and holds debris. On the other hand a sump is only intended to remove phosphates.

in all my readings a sump will only help fighting alage not removing them

No, I think YOU have huge misconceptions about everything.

There is a huge misconception around live rocks. There isn't such of thing as live rock except in the ocean. Nobody will ever ship a live rock from the ocean in the same water. The cost of transportation will just make it impossible. These rocks are only shipped humid and by the time you are buying them from resellers they are 99% dead rocks. So you are only buying base rock.

Boiling and baking rock will not remove all potential toxins. I hope to god someone doesn’t take your advice when setting up their tank.

i'd say boil it and then bake it to be sure you'd remove all potential toxins.
I am also looking to ad freshwater rocks to my reef. Eventually they would become live.
The cost of real rocks is way too expensive!

We all should take advice about live rock from someone that got all his from a tank that was filled with nails!!

the live rocks were coming from a bad fish tank with lots of algaes, low light and metallic nails in it

You say that your tank looks great. Well, reading the following quotes, who on earth would take advice from someone with a tank like this? Obviously all your wacky filtration ideas are working GREAT!

In the past few days water has becomed smelly.
The diatoms were floating everywhere in the tank and the grass was nurishing like crazy.
Flatworms, all sort of bugs and creatures ..

i am having over 3 months with this set up and the coralline algae are conquested by this hair algae.

i think you don't know what i have... there is a jungle on my live rocks, hair algae, marine grass, bubble algae, i bought these live rocks like this and they are out of control. Nothing will eat them, snails and urchins are avoiding it. The water is smelly.
Imust get rid of all this sh**** once for all in my tank.

Hi, my tank looks very ugly and hard to maintain.

Ok so i am fighting with 4 brand of algae;
1) Brown
2) Green
3) Cyano
4) Boubble alage

My old friend brown algae is back and he brought another friend, green algae. Now they are hanging out together making my life miserable.

Oh yes, none of us care about biological filtration anyways! It’s worthless!

I have the ame problem. The brown ugly stuff won't go. The rocks were ugly and avoided by snails and sea urchins.
So i have used red slime remover. Also have heard that it kills my biological filtration, well, i don't care , i can add anytime some biological bacteria.

It is a photosynthetic bacteria. DUH.

i must ad that cutting off lights will not remove cyano. Cyano is not an algae, it's a bacteria, as such it's not fed by light.

Oh you’re a coral and invert expert too! HOW REFRESHING!

corals don't do well in low salinity. 1.023 isn't good to them.

Hi been a few days since my Zoanthids will not open enitrely.

How can i save my urchin? It started loosing its spines :-(

i've noticed one of my corals has developed some white spots on it. What is that?

Two disc corals and Blue Xenia already dead :frustrat:

I thought you said you haven’t had things die?

Victims so far :-(

7 turbo snails
1 soft coral has been covered in some white stuff and i've brushed it after he died
1 cardinal had refused all the offered food and he dies after two weeks

You should ask my fish. I’ve had them for 5 years on a similar feeding schedule. They seem to understand it.

Feeding animals once at every 5 days it's absurde and i cannot understand it!

Now let’s see what he has to think about the #1 most effective and commonly used piece of equipment in this hobby.

These Protein Skimmers are doing nothing than trying to copy the sea waves crushed on the beach shore or the heavy rain. Is it unknown and unlikely if through this Siphoning) procedure the sea washes its waters. Very often the nature cannot be copied and not by a (stupid piece of plastic) and a pump. Sorry i am not trying to be smart in anyways but this is what a protein skimmer is. AN OVERPRICED CHAMBER OF PLASTIC since the water is marine and having salt there is a result; foam. Put marine salt into a container and wash it under a sink with pressure and you'll see the same foam as you'll see in a psk.

Even the protein skimmers are having a sponge that builds bacterias and promotes nitrates. in fact protein skimmers are no. 1 reducing all of your calcium and trace elements from the tank.

The protein skimmer is the worse aquisition in your tanks and it removes everything. I am sure majority of you are keeping reef corals only a few months and they are dying as i heard . Isn't the light or anything else. Is because of too much science and bs

But what does he think about other commonly used pieces of equipment?

Power heads are no good in fish tanks.

You know what else is safe for humans? Avocados. But they will kill birds. Onions are safe for humans. But will kill cats and dogs. Just because something is safe for humans does not mean it’s automatically safe for every other living thing.

The very same activated carbon is used in human consumption against gases and intestine problems and disconfort. I am sure many studies has been recently made when we're talking about human enviroment. I am very confident that since this carbon is safe for humans it's also safe for everything else.

THE END.
 
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