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Make sure that any Par data you read has been adjusted for the very blue output of most LED fixtures, par readings can be as much as 20-25% low if they are not corrected to account for blue light that is not 'seen' by the par meter Corals can be burned by led fixtures, because the light tends...

The whole ever grow fixture is a 'Chinese' knock off

No, if the tank has cycled, the sand will slowly become live over time, there really isn't a need to pay a huge mark up on 'live' sand. Live rock is more than sufficient to establish a tank with 'dead' sand

I don't think that the photon 24 would be too much, but you may want to also take a look at the AI Hydra, a single fixture should work for you as well. I'll be upgrading to those over my 180 in the very near future

Supposedly running 3 watt LEDs but if the wattage per channel is right, they aren't even running them at the full 3 watts which makes no sense. It's enough that if it were me I'd be moving on to other options

You do know that an orange spotted filefish eats coral right? They are very finicky eaters, and even if weened off of coral, it is possible they may start eating it again. This is a very difficult fish, and probably even more difficult / frustrating in a reef setup

They'll munch almost any invert, and coral as well My wife really wanted one, and I thought to myself that in a 180, how bad could a few dead hermits / snails be? In 24 hours, he literally went through 100+ snails/ hermits, a clam, and irritated the hell out of some corals

We need way more information here, as Erin has already stated. Provide some more information about your set up Also, what does 'acclimated properly' mean? Did you drip acclimate? For how long? etc

I'm with Erin in this one, sounds like a bacterial bloom to me. It may have been kicked off by the 'Lysol bomb' but if your inverts are okay at this point I wouldn't be overly concerned. Keep up on your normal water changes and change you'd carbon often for a little while longer - I do not think...

Your clam and just about anything else you would ever want to keep will do just fine under that Kessil, it was a good choice

They are also very easily spooked and like to launch out of the tank. Mine turned into fish jerky a week ago - make sure your tank is covered

A mix is best, you want a couple of different quality frozen or flake/pellet foods. Many will tell you to avoid non frozen foods, but there are some good ones out there like New Life Spectrum pellets or ocean nutrition flakes

Nutrient export: you're adding more to the tank than your water changes are removing

I loved mine, but it started snacking on everything in my tank so I had to re-home it

Most will tell you that a clown tang should be avoided. They have a tendency to get really, really mean after settling in to a tank. If you are going to try to Acanthurus tangs, its best that you add them together at the same time, and make them the last fish added to the tank. Both the Sohal...

Welcome to the reef

Test for phosphates. Its entirely possible that once you start running macro algae that you wont need to run GFO as well. The only way to really know is to test your water. Every setup and stocking list is different, so there is no way to know other than testing. Most liquid phosphate tests...

Aluminum will rust after exposure to salt/ salt water. You want plastic for making lids for our tanks

There isn't any reason to trade in your current fish just because you're moving to a larger tank. They would all do fine in a 150. A tank that size opens up a lot of possibilities. You could get a tang or one of the larger (reef safe) wrasses, or a school of something like Barletts Anthias -...

You dont attach it to your tank. You attach it to one of your regular water lines. You remove the impurities before they make it in your tank