Name your favorite tang!

uv's work great to but they still do not get rid of it completely. ony two things have been proved to kill it it is copper and hypo-salinity (which is hard on the animal)
 
But its kinda like the flue shot. It works for a while but if u dont get vaxinated agin u get sick. I belive u can kill any infection on it but if it gets stresed or anything like that then a whole new infection begins. One that was not treated brcause it is brand new.
 
if you sit in a bubble all day like a bubble boy you will never get sick because nothing can get in but if i put a sick kid in there with you for a bit you are going to get sick. sam thing goes with fish if you kill things before the get to the tank the other animals in the tank will never get it. ever. but if you put something sick in there every thing is infected until to medicate all the fish
 
I gotta agree with James here... Although I do think keeping all fish in a QT tank for 6 weeks is difficult, and stressful on the fish as well, so the majority of people probably don't do it.

and just as a tidbit of info, the reason we get re-vaccinated every year for the flu has a whole lot more to do with the relatively rapid rate of mutation the virus has, and almost nothing to do with the vaccine "wearing off" over time..... once you have antibodies to something, like a specific strain of flu, you more or less always have them. :)
 
if you sit in a bubble all day like a bubble boy you will never get sick because nothing can get in but if i put a sick kid in there with you for a bit you are going to get sick. sam thing goes with fish if you kill things before the get to the tank the other animals in the tank will never get it. ever. but if you put something sick in there every thing is infected until to medicate all the fish
Spot on! People think ich can just appear and infect your fish.Don't introduce it ,and it will never be an issue.Tangs are only ich magnets if you introduce it to them.They do not just magically get ich.I have never had an issue with it.:D
 
This is also why having an LFS you can trust 100% is so great.Mine QT's for me.Support your LFS and become friendly and they will help you in everyway.
 
I have a scopas, yellow and yellow eyed Kole tang in my 125. My yellow is 11 yrs old and the yellow eyed kole tang is 8 yrs old and my scopas is 5 yrs old. They are my favorite fish

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What is Cryptocaryon?

Saltwater Ich or White Spot Disease is caused by an infestation of the ciliated protozoan Cryptocaryon irritans. Although just like the ich organisms Oodinium (Marine Ich, Velvet or Coral Fish Disease) and Brooklynella (Clownfish Disease) that also become parasitic to fish at one stage in their life cycle, Crypto progresses less rapidly. If detected early and treated promptly upon an outbreak, the chances of recovery are high. However, in a closed aquarium system it can reach overwhelming and disastrous numbers just the same if it is not taken care of.
The Life Cycle of Cryptocaryon irritans
  • Free-swimming cells called tomites are released from a mature tomont, or encrusted cyst, and go in search of a host fish, typically dying in a day or two if one is not found.
  • Upon finding a host the tomites attach to the gills or body and develop into parasitic trophonts, at which stage the organisms burrow into the fish and begin feeding on its tissues.
  • Once well fed the trophonts stop feeding and encyst, at which stage they become inactive tomonts. These dormant cysts can remain trapped in the fish's mucus, be inbedded deep in the tissue, or drop off and fall to the bottom. Over a period of 6 to 10 days the cells inside the cysts reproduce by single-cell division, and become tomites. Once reaching maturity the cysts rupture, each releases hundreds of new free-swimming tomites, and the cycle begins again, but in much larger numbers.
Symptoms
Unlike Oodinium and Brooklynella that typically attack the gills first, which allows these ich diseases to advance into life-threatening levels quickly as they go unnoticed, Cryptocaryon usually appears at the onset as salt-sized white spots visible on the body and fins of a host fish, and when the organisms become parasitic, it is then that they move inwards to the gills. Because crypto is more easily recognized in its beginning stage, this makes it much easier to treat and cure before it gets out of control.
Aside from the appearance of the white spots, fish will scratch against objects in an attempt to dislodge the parasites, and rapid respiration develops as tomonts, mucus, and tissue debris clogs the gills. Fish become listless, refuse to eat, loss of color occurs in patches or blotches as the trophonts destroy the pigment cells, and secondary bacterial infections invade the lesions caused by the trophonts.
Treatment Recommendations
Although copper is very effective on Oodinium, and it works well to eliminate crypto organisms in their free-swimming tomite stage, it is not as effective on the Cryptocaryon trophonts that burrow deeply into the tissues of fish. A combination of freshwater and formalin treatments administered by means of dips, baths, and prolonged treatment over a period of time in a QT is recommended.
Preventing Reinfestation Reinfection will occur no matter how effectively the fish have been treated if Cryptocaryon is not eradicated from the main aquarium, which can be accomplished by keeping the tank devoid of any fish for at least 4 weeks. For fish-only aquariums hyposalinity can be applied, and to speed up the life cycle of the organisms, elevate the tank reef aquariums
 
Wow , thats great.Not to sound rude or that i doubt what your saying,but why does it appear that all your tangs are only 3 or 4 inches.Should'nt they be alot bigger at those ages.:dunno:
 
I have a scopas, yellow and yellow eyed Kole tang in my 125. My yellow is 11 yrs old and the yellow eyed kole tang is 8 yrs old and my scopas is 5 yrs old. They are my favorite fish

what else do you have in your 125 in terms of fish? Also, how did you go about introducing the various tangs so they don't kill each other?
 
Wow , thats great.Not to sound rude or that i doubt what your saying,but why does it appear that all your tangs are only 3 or 4 inches.Should'nt they be alot bigger at those ages.:dunno:

The yellow and Kole are about 6 inches and the scopas is about 5 inches. They just look small because the corals are 10 and eleven yrs also. That Bubble coral is about 10 inches wide. For a better reference click on the view my tank link.
 
what else do you have in your 125 in terms of fish? Also, how did you go about introducing the various tangs so they don't kill each other?

If you also click on the view my tank link you`ll see what`s in the tank. I didnt have any problem getting my yellow and yellow eyed Kole tang together. Different shape and color`s helped their. The Scopas and yellow did scrap some but only for a few days. The key as I said was dissimilar shapes and color IME. Good luck with yours.
 
Tangs which ones. I will agree with biff of the three you mentioned the chevron will be the easiest to keep.

I'm not sure that I have one tang thats my fav. I will list my tops choices to bottom LOL, you asked for it...

Acanthurus leucocheilus (in my 180)
Acanthurus Dussumeiri (in 850 and 180)
Acanthurus maculiceps (850)
koi tang (850)
Vlamingi (180 and 850)
blue tang and yellow belly blue tang (180 and 850)
Achillles (hopefully one day)
sohal tang (850)
black tang (850)
purple tang (850)
scopas (180)
gem (dreaming)
atlantic blue (one day)
naso unicornis (850)
naso regular and blonde (blonde in 850)
yellow eye (180)
tomini tang (850)
tenneti tang :( had one
.......well I could keep going but I won't. and I'm not touching the ick debat......

as far as adding tangs to help prevent them from fighting alot depends on hiding spots and the order that you add them.
 
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