Tap water TDS lower than RODI water

clancaster23

Reefing newb
I am having some sort of problem with certain algae in one of my tanks and I believe it's the water doing it but I don't quite understand how. I use the BRS 4 stage 75 GPD RODI system and I have replaced the filters but it was probably months ago but at the same time, I don't do a ton of water changes so I don't think they need replaced already. Now, I use BRS's TDS-3 handheld meter. When I put it in my bin of new saltwater (salt already mixed and ready to use as a change), I get a reading of around 800 and the x10 light on it flashes. When I take a glass of water from my tap and test that, it only goes up to around 115 and no x10 light. Does this mean my tap water is cleaner than my so-called clean water is?? How is this possible when it's going through the fiters, clean or not? When I did change the filters, I did all three canisters. Are you supposed to do the thing that runs along the top of it also?
 
Try testing it BEFORE you add the salt mix. You are getting a high TDS because you are adding salts and the salts are dissolved solids.
 
Ok, feel free to call me an idiot. Still, I'm getting about 15 or 16 on the readings. Guess I do need to change some filters. Know if I should be changing the long one that goes across the top or not? I haven't done that one.
 
I know on my RO/DI unit, I have to turn the meter on and let it stay on for a minute or so while the unit is running. Initially it starts out high but after running for a minute or so the reading comes down to about 2 for me (higher than 0, but not high enough yet for me to change the filter). Is your TDS connected to your unit? Or is it a different type of meter?
 
No, it's this one: TDS-3 Handheld TDS Meter - HM Digital - Bulk Reef Supply

And I did put it in and out a few different times. It did start out higher around 80 than a couple more tries and it's sticking around so I'm pretty sure it's reading right now. Would a 15 cause problems in your tank (algae growth) if used ofr an extended amount of time?

Let your RODI run a few seconds before you test it. If not you are getting "quick cycle" impure water. Try it that way and see if it is better. Basically, you get a burst of "not as good" water when you first turn it on. If you fill a gallon jug for your tank, for example, you won't be getting much of that burst of "short cycle" water. If you have an ATO that is constantly turning your RODI off and on for a tiny bit of top off water you would be getting lots of "short cycle" water.

And .... I learned that here on LivingReefs.. !!! .. cool!

Does that make sense?

-randy-
 
I actually did let it run for a few minutes figuring that I may get some dirty water sitting in the lines or filter so no worries there.
 
I actually did let it run for a few minutes figuring that I may get some dirty water sitting in the lines or filter so no worries there.

I kind-a figured you had done so. Have you touched the probe tips? You may try cleaning them with a soft clothe and trying "one more time".

But yes, the long skinny canister at the top is your RO membrane. It is the special one of the filters and costs between $35 and $50.. most HomeDepot and Lowes carry them. I just purchased two at my Lowes for $35 each because they were on clearance. Take it out and put it in a zip baggie.. and take it to make sure..but..as far as I know they are all the same..

....but look out.. they are in process of making us buy new canisters.. and changing the shape of the membranes so we will have to buy one. I think the new ones are going to be screw on or something... figures.. huh?

If your DI filter needs changing or was missing your readings are about what your RO membrane would be reading if is was in fair condition. My new membranes run at around 4 to 8 before the DI takes the water to .000.
 
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Have you flushed the RO membrane? It is the valve that is by the flow restrictor. If you don't have one of those, you can just disconnect the flow restrictor and then all the water will flow over the membrane and not through it. This can help prolong the life of an RO membrane. If that doesn't do anything, you might need to change out the membrane.

Also, did you change the DI resin when you changed your filters? If I recall, the BRS resin changes from a blue to a yellowish brown color when it gets used up.
 
I'm lost when you ask about the flow restrictor. I just have the red line connected to my hose and the filter gets water that way. No fancy valves or hookups or anything. As far as the different filters, I did change all three when I replace dthem and the DI resin one is still pretty dark in color so I don't think it needs changed. The first canister, the sediment one, is a dirty white, maybe slightly yellowed in color but I'm not sure how much this one effects the water. I don't know how to flush anything out if that's what I should try.

I have this system: BRS 4 Stage Value RO/DI System - 75GPD - Bulk Reef Supply

The three filters are from left to right, sediment (the one I said is a slight yellow color), second is carbon block and third is the DI resin. The one along the top is the one I have never changed and not sure I have to.
 
Wasn't even aware of this so I'll add it to the to-get list.

Back to the original problem, would a reading of 18 being used continuously cause algae problems or do I need to look elsewhere for the source of the problem?
 
From our FAQ's:

In this hobby we measure Total Dissolved Solids in parts per million, or "ppm." We often try to measure TDS down near 0 ppm. Because this TDS level is so low, we have to keep in mind the sensitivity of the meter used to measure it, and the technique used to measure the tds.

Nearly any contamination in the sample container will cause an erroneous TDS measurement. Some plastic containers are difficult to get absolutely clean, and although they appear clean, they are not. An easy standard approach is to use a drinking glass as a sample container - use one right out of the dishwasher. Obviously, keep your fingers away from the inside surface of the glass.

Calibrate your meter. Use a calibration fluid generally in the range of the tds measurements you'll be taking. Some meters require a specific tds calibration fluid (e.g., 800 ppm), regardless of the tds levels in your samples.

Be careful with how you take your samples. Let's say you intend to measure the TDS in your 1) DI water, 2) RO water, and 3) tap water. Start with the cleanest of the three - the DI water. After letting the system run for a sufficient period of time that you are sure the tds levels have stabilized (to assure you are not measuring tds creep water), rinse the sample container two or three times with the water you intend to sample, and then fill the sample container with sufficient DI water to take a reading.

Now on to the RO water. The water we are interested in here is the permeate – i.e., the water that has been purified by the RO membrane – not the waste water. Make sure you understand which is which before taking the sample. Most RODI systems other than Buckeye Systems are not plumbed to facilitate taking a sample of the permeate. If that is the case, you’ll need to unhook some tubing – likely where the tubing attaches to the “in” port on the DI housing in order to take this sample. This is inconvenient for many people, and we find that people never do it. They report only the tap water TDS and the DI water TDS. Contact Buckeye if you need guidance regarding installing a couple of extra fittings and tubing to facilitate measuring the TDS of the RO water (permeate). When you take the sample, follow the same procedure described above – use a clean sample container, assure you are not measuring TDS creep water, rinse with the permeate several times before taking the sample, and use a calibrated meter.

Use the same approach to collect and measure your tap water as well.
Russ
 
I .. MAY ..of solve the mystery …. I had to do a membrane change and was mindful of the original posted problem… You need to check to see that you pushed the RO membrane all the way into the canister. This is not as easy as you may think.. it should go in .. then.. go in deeper until (in my case) it is about a ½” below the lip of the canister end. Many canister tops do not push the RO membrane cartridge in for you. If you do not do this you will not have RO water and your DI mix will be used in a few gallons. Which means if you find out your did not push it in all the way you will need to replace the DI material, cartridge, or re-fill the refillable cartridge.

Let us know so we can all learn.. please.

PS: Also, you will appear to be making RO water faster than you should.
 
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I just replaced the sediment filter today and I'm back to 0 TDS now. Good times and just in time because I'm down to one tank now and I'm getting the start of a little cyano so I'm going to be doing a few changes in the next week or so and I'll need all the good water I can get. I got a two pack from Home Depot for $10.
 
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