Question about halides and algae

Chris_150G

Chris_150G

Reefing newb
I'm new to the site. I found it because I was researching about coral. It's pretty cool. I have a question for you guys. I'm upgrading my tank to reef status. I have a 150G tank that has been live rock and fish for a year. I just finally was able to get two used 250W 20K halides over it and I was really hoping the live rocks would get some more colorful coraline algae. (One used bulb and one new one and the light is really blue-whitish which looks great by the way) Instead all of my rocks have turned plain old brown. Seriously its like they have been cursed. I am planning on putting some corals in but what about my shady brown rocks? Is it bad algae?
 
How long have you had the lights on the tank?

What are your parameters?
PH
nitrate
Phosphates
Salinity
Calcium
Alk

Since I am assuming that you only had a small flourecent over it before, the increase of light will cause an increase of algea

Also, since it was a fish with live rock tank, the nitrates are probably on the high end over 20ppm. That will feed the nuicance algea.

Was the rock live rock or just dry rock that you put in the tank? If it was just dry, it wont have any of the pink coraline to start growing. You can add a piece or two of live rock that has the pink coraline to get it to seed the rest.

Phosphates and Nitrates feed the bad algea which will out grow the pink algea. Try to keep those down.

Also, calcium and alkalinity need to be higher to get it to grow good.

Once you give us a bit more about your tank, we can help you out

And welcome to the site:Cheers:

BJ
 
I have had the big dogs (lights) for a week. I did have a wimpy florescent light before. I have about 150lbs of rock, about half live rock and half base rock.
I'm hoping the brown algae doesn't get worse. I have pretty good water, but not good enough which is what I'm wating for before I get coral.

My Amonia/nitrites are 0.
Nitrate is about 15-20 ppm.
PH 8.2
KH is 214.8 ppm
calcium 420 ppm
77 degrees F
I don't have a phosphate kit yet

I have been changing water pretty regularly. So far have been adding salt to tap water because its cheaper. This crap gets expensive. I have a new skimmer that finally started working yesterday. (It took a week to start working). I have liquid calcium and other additives to maintain the KH-calcium-PH.

My local fish place sells ocean salt water from Catalina Island. I'm an hour from the beach and catalina is a local island with reefs in southern California, (if you didn't know that.) They say they use it in their tanks. Is that water good to use in your opinion(s)?

How can I get rid of the brown algae?
 
I wouldn't buy their ocean water, it's probably expensive. Why don't you use bottled water instead? You can buy jugs of RODI water from Walmart or any grocery store. But with a large tank, it's most cost effective to get your own RODI unit. A decent one will run you around $100 (P U R E W A T E R C L U B is what I recommend).

The sad thing is, there is usually no way to beat algae if you are using tap water. It will be a constant fight.
 
Cool thanks.That makes sense. I will get a RO unit ASAP. Its pretty cheap for as cool as it sounds. After all the other expensive stuff I have had to buy I wouldnt have been surprised if they cost 3 grand. but the install is a little daunting. I also found there are some fancy shmancy options that I dont know useful they are. I really don't want to pay someone a crap load of money to do it. I'm going to research the install.
 
Most of us here have had to install our own RODI unit. It's pretty simple. You basically connect one tube to your cold water line under the sink, and another tube to your drain underneath the sink. If you have questions when you get the unit, we can walk you through it.
 
I ordered a 6 stage RO unit from Purewater Club ($140). It's for both drinking and the aquarium. I added the tank float shut off thing for $5. With tax & shipping it was $200. I am so broke.

I knew I had good water pressure but maybe it's too good. I checked and found it to be 98 psi.

Yikes, is that too much? I hope not!

:zap::zap:
 
Well the water company told me 98 psi. If it's that high perhaps my house already has a regulator. I got a pressure tester so I can test it tonight.
 
yea, wow, 90+psi huh? i bet you can just about peel the skin off with your shower head with that...

mine's pretty constant at 45psi, but then again i do live way out past BFE a ways out in the country...i will need a booster pump when i get mine...

yea that tap water can be some bad news, depending on what all is in it...

when your unit comes in, and you get it all hooked up, things will start to get better for your tank.. almost willing to bet on it.

i dont know what you have to test the pressure but i just got the 8 buck rainbird "screw on the end of the garden hose" kind.. good enuf for this stuff, and yea i verified the pressure readings around 40 psi with some compressed air...
 
Yup I got one (pressure tester) that just screws on the hose outside. My hose pressure is pretty crazy powerful while inside my house seems pretty normal. I wonder if the hose could have more power than inside the house. Do you think they make an adapter to put the hose pressure tester on the sink output? I am seriously not buying any more pressure testers.

I wish the RO unit would just jump out of the box and start working on its own. I was looking at my invoice from PureWater earlier and somehow I orderd 5 of those cut off valves. I can't believe I didn't see that when I ordered it (but it was late and I had been drinking..hehe). And there is no way to contact PureWater Club other than email. And on their website they say they try to respond to emails on weekends and off time. So its likely I will get a lifetime supply of those tank overflow valves.
 
They were only $5 a piece. But I live in Southern California so shipping is the real cost.I did email them to try to stop them from sending me the extras. Well see what happens.
 

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