In the wise words of Rafiki: "It is time!"

[andysgirl8800]

Please help! :bowdown: It is time to replace my DIY, Frankenstein, second-hand lighting system. My husband is tired of standing by with the fire extinguisher. At the moment, I am running 2 175W MH on an old magnetic ballast, 2 72" VHO actinics on an Icecap ballast, and stand-alone moon lights. I would really like to try LED, but with the current market, cannot afford the top of the line AI Sols and am not skilled enough to DIY something again. I am looking into some of the "plug and play" modulars, BUT, not sure which to even look at. I am getting headaches from TMI. I know I want 3w types, not 1w. I want dimmable, possibly programmable, but can't swing $400 PER MODULE. Anyone use some of the "made in China" types?

I have recently added in a clam, but otherwise, have only SPS corals in my standard 125g tank. I am hoping to add an anemone in the future.

I am giving some thought to 3-4 of these: 120W Dimmable Colors LED Fixture AQUARIUM LIGHT 55x3W BRIDGELUX Coral Reef | eBay

 

[Cheeser]

im pretty sure u can get away with 3 ecoray 60s
there like 250 each and they are super powerful no joke.

 

[FishyReef]

How much can you afford to spend total? This will help give us an idea of which direction to point you in!

 

[andysgirl8800]

How much can you afford to spend total? This will help give us an idea of which direction to point you in!

My absolute limit would be $900, IF I can completely cover top to bottom and side to side in my 125.


Thanks for the information about the Ecorays. It looks like they are 1watt, instead of 3watt.

 

[FishyReef]

Okay, I'd recommend looking in to either the kessil's (I believe 1 unit will cover 3ft, so 2 units should give you full coverage for a 125), or Par38 bulbs - each is around 100 and you can get several to hang above your tank. Some of the newer Par38s include reds/turquoise/uv/warm or neutral whites in the mix, and the kessil has a pretty good spectral coverage as far as LEDs go. The biggest challenge that you are going to face switching from MH to LED is color shift, so getting LEDs that give you good coverage across the spectrum will be really important, particularly in the UV range. Definitely do your homework - when it comes to LEDs, its really all about spectrum and dimmability right now - and don't bother with the knock-offs - they might be okay for 6 months or so, but everyone I know who has these types of units runs into some problem at some point w/in the first year and then has no customer service to turn to. These units should last you 5 years w/o having to consider replacing bulbs. I think its worth the switch, but be prepared to acclimate your corals to the new lights and experience some color shifts under the LEDs as they get used to your lighting and you get used to figuring out the right white/blue ratio to get ideal color and growth!

 

[andysgirl8800]

Thanks FR, I have a closed canopy system, can I still use something like the Kessil? The look like they need to be hung, as opposed to mounted. I also see several wattage/color options. Not sure which would be appropriate for my tank. I do plan on a very gradual re-acclimation of my corals to adjust to the LEDs.

 

[FishyReef]

I think you can mount the kessils in your canopy with a simply hook - beeguiles has one of the kessils over her 93g so you might want to pm her and get her thoughts. As far as color, they should have spectrum output info on their website - I'd pull those specs up and take a look at them - you want to make sure you get a unit that provides coverage down into the low 400s or even high 300s range (UV) as well as enough coverage in the upper 400-500 range. I think broader coverage is better than really strong coverage in a limited range. I also know Northstar has done a lot of reading up on spectral issues and ranges, so he might have some good thoughts for you if you pm him (or maybe he'll see this thread and respond!)

Edit: One other thought I have is, if possible, wait until after MACNA to purchase anything - there will likely be a lot of new stuff unveiled there that could offer even better options or hint to an updated unit w/ more features (for example, I don't think the existing kessil units are dimmable, but suspect this is a feature that will be released in the near future, and we'll likely hear more on this at MACNA if its going to happen soon).

 

[Cheeser]

Thanks for the information about the Ecorays. It looks like they are 1watt, instead of 3watt.[/QUOTE]
the eco rays are 3 watt

 

[FishyReef]

Cheeser, not sure where you are getting that they are 3 watts. This is from the Ecoray website and it clearly says they are 1 watt LEDs: Ecoray 60D | EcoRay

 

[andysgirl8800]

There is an intimidating and seemingly endless array of units to choose from. Wow. Perhaps I have bitten off more than I can chew. Maybe I should just replace with a better MH/VHO/ML combo unit instead.

 

[Cathic]

You could do a nice retro into your canopy with 3 250's or 3 400's. Maybe even string some t5's in there? Most everything comes plug and play its just a matter of screwing some hanging hooks into the canopy....

 

[fastrd400]

The Kessil A350 is by far the best fixture you will find in that price range. Their spectrum is amazing as well as coverage. I know many people out here running them, and they love them. No need to wait until after MACNA either, there is no upgrade for these lights. They are not dimmable, but that aspect is purly astetic anyway. You can manually adjust their color with a pair of tuning knobs. They hang from a simple ring and hook inside your canopy as well.

 

[FishyReef]

The Kessil A350 is by far the best fixture you will find in that price range. Their spectrum is amazing as well as coverage. I know many people out here running them, and they love them. No need to wait until after MACNA either, there is no upgrade for these lights. They are not dimmable, but that aspect is purly astetic anyway. You can manually adjust their color with a pair of tuning knobs. They hang from a simple ring and hook inside your canopy as well.

What are people doing to light acclimate their corals to the Kessils if they aren't dimmable? That would be my only concern w/ undimmable lights.... But yeah, Andy, I think you should go with the Kessils - there is a lot out there and it can be overwhelming, but there are really only a few fixtures worth considering and the Kessil is one of them!

 

[fastrd400]

What are people doing to light acclimate their corals to the Kessils if they aren't dimmable? That would be my only concern w/ undimmable lights.... But yeah, Andy, I think you should go with the Kessils - there is a lot out there and it can be overwhelming, but there are really only a few fixtures worth considering and the Kessil is one of them!

What? MH lights are not dim-able, how would you light acclimate with them moving up from a T5 or PC fixture? Light acclimating is the same, regardless of whether the fixture dims or not.

The whole ramping up and down of a fixture to simulate a sunrise, sunset effect does nothing for your tank, or livestock, it is purely aesthetic.

 

[andysgirl8800]

What are people doing to light acclimate their corals to the Kessils if they aren't dimmable? That would be my only concern w/ undimmable lights....

Anyone? I am also concerned about accilimation.
:question:

 

[Bifferwine]

Three ways you can do it. Move your corals to the bottom and gradually move them closer to the light, start off by running the lights only for an hour or two each day, then gradually increase the photoperiod over time, or buy sheets of light diffuser at the hardware store and remove the sheets one by one to gradually increase the light over time.

 

[fastrd400]

^^^^^^^^^ zactly

 

[RockStacker]

I know it is overwhelming to shop around for all possible lighting options.
But I just wanted to add some details regarding the particular fixture that you linked since I am using something similar.

Size:
Most of these cases have approximately 16" x 8-1/2" footprint, and are about 2-1/2" inches thick.
Each unit at 12" above the water level will be able to cover a 2-foot section of a 125gal tank.
So assuming you have a 6-foot 125gal tank, you will need three of these spaced across the top of the tank.
For a narrow-deep tank, I still recommend three units spaced closer together. (Or get one Aqua Illumina or EcoTech brand that can cover the footprint of the narrow-deep tank)

Space clearance:
In addition to their case dimensions, you also have to consider the clearance for ventilation.
These units usually have three fans that blow the air out through the side vents, and thus sucks cool air in from the top.
I still question the reasoning for their choice of air flow direction, my experience with greenhouses tell me heat expulsion would be more efficient if the warm air is pushed out through the top, and cool air is sucked in from the sides. But with these LED fixtures, heat generation is negligible and thus heat dissipation efficiency can take a back seat.

If you are hanging these from an open frame, then clearance is not an issue.
However if you are going to fit them inside a canopy, make sure you have sufficient clearance for ventilation.
They don't get hot, but in the confines of a canopy any electronic device can heat up if not given adequate ventilation.

Color/Spectrum selection:
This was a limitation I chose to accept when I purchased my LED fixtures. At the time, the kits only offered the White/Blue combos.
Newer kits are introducing supplemental colors, but I am not sure how big of an impact one or two off-color LEDs would have in relation to the remaining 40+ White/Blue bulbs.

Dimmable:
If you can get a dimmable one, it would be preferrable over non-dimmable ones.
The price difference is about $10.00 so this additional control is nice.

No fancy electronics:
Most of these units are simple workhorse devices. They have dimmers and power switches, and that's it.


I did see this on Ebay. It is a rather ambitious version that has enhanced electronics:
120 Watt DIMMABLE coral reef LED fixture 120w Digital Timer and Monlight | eBay

However, that price takes you closer to more reputable brands with similar (if not better) electronic controls.
Personally, for off-brand products I prefer to keep the mechanisms down to bare bones.
Easier to fix/troubleshoot should they fail.


You can check out my tank threads in my signature if you want to see what they look like.

 

[andysgirl8800]

Ok, after much research and deep thought, I am giving more thought to the AI Sol Super Blues. I realize some of my fellow forum peeps are currently using these lights. So I am really hoping a few of you will chime in. Here are my questions:

1) I would like to mount these inside my canopy. Can this be done with the separate mounting rails?

2) I'm having some difficulties determining the best choice between the AI Sol White, Blue, or Super Blue. Thoughts?

3) How high should I mount these on my 125g?

4) I have all SPS in my tank and 1 clam, no nems (yet). Can I get away with just 2 of these units for now? With the intent of adding a third in the future?

5) Will I need to shield these in any way from any random spash? I've read that any itty bit of water on them will destroy the unit.

My last magnetic ballast caught fire this morning (like its twin before it) and my lighting is now reduced to my VHO actinics. MUST MAKE MY CHANGE. Thanks for any input you can provide.

 

[fastrd400]

Keep in mind that the AI's only cover 18" per unit effectively. You will want at least the Blues if you go with them. You may also seriously consider leaving your VHO bulbs in tact, and maybe shifting the color on them that the AI's do not cover. I still say you are better off with the Kessils for just a bit more money than a used AI Sol.