Help with a new BioCube 29

[mateysp]

Hi all, :Cheers:

Have a few questions for the experts here:

Well first off, I just got a new biocube. I have never done a saltwater tank before but have done freshwater for years. Wanted to make sure I have everything I need. I haven't bought anything yet, but here is my shopping cart online:

AmQuel+ Plus Dry 10 oz
Pro-Clear Marine 16 oz
Master Liquid Test Kit Saltwater
Hydrometer 1.000 to 1.030 specific gravity
Florida Crushed Coral 40 lbs
Rotating Deflector FLO
Theo Heater 150 watt
Kent Marine Reef Salt Mix 50 gallon mix (jug)
Instant Ocean BIO-Spira 3.38 oz.


I also plan on getting this live rock.


I don't plan on putting in any coral right now, and I don't see myself doing it down the road.


I need some ideas with live stock, right now I know I want 2 ocellaris clown fish, and a bicolor dottyback. Is there anything else I could do? Any Ideas would be appreciated.


I will also need some help with cycling. I plan to buy that bio-spira, to help the cycle process, but is it worth it? OR should I simply go with a fish-less cycle with the live rock?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[Bifferwine]

Hello!
I have a few suggestions/changes to your list.

You don't need the AmQuel. It is perfectly normal to have ammonia during the cycle (it's the first step of the cycle), so you don't need to buy an additive to get rid of it. It will go away on its own as the cycle progresses.

You also don't need the Pro-Clear Marine. In general, stay away from additives/chemicals for your tank. They often have side effects and usually are not necessary and just cost you money.

Instead of a hydrometer, get a refractometer. Hydrometers are not accurate and need to be replaced every 6 months. Make sure you also get calibration fluid with the refractometer.

Don't get crushed coral -- get aragonite sand. Crushed coral particles are very large and trap uneaten food and detritus. This leads to poor water quality (namely high nitrates). Sand is easier to keep clean, looks nicer and there are many animals that live in sand that cannot live in crushed coral due to the large particle size.

The flow deflector is optional. The flow from the powerhead that comes standard with the Biocube is probably enough and I don't think a flow deflector will add anything to the setup.

Some people say the BioSpira helps, some say it doesn't do anything. I say save your money and just let the tank cycle with live rock.

I can't see the link to the live rock right now (I'm on a work computer). But you will want 1 to 2 lbs of rock per gallon (so 30 to 60 lbs). This can be a mix of live and dry rock, which will save money rather than buying all live rock.

You will be maxed out at about 3 to 4 small fish in that tank. The clowns and dottyback would make a good combination, I think. When you start adding fish, either add the pair of clowns or the dottyback first, then wait at least 3 weeks before adding the next fish. This will help ensure that you don't start a new cycle by adding too many fish at once.

Also, what kind of water will you be using? It's not recommended that you use tap water; that usually leads to algae problems. You should either buy an RODI unit to make your own water at home, or you can buy distilled or RO water at the grocery store or Walmart.

 

[Bifferwine]

https://www.livingreefs.com/why-using-tap-water-bad-idea-t19865.html

 

[mateysp]

OK, I will get rid of those things off of my list. I was planning on buy the water at the grocery store. Those systems are way to expensive.

The link you cant see is a link to eBay for 20 pounds of live rock. I may get some dry rock to mix in, but that is about the most live rock I can afford.

I think perhapes I will try this sand then, but will 20 pounds be enough?

 

[Bifferwine]

You can save even more money by buying dry sand instead of live sand. But what you picked out is fine. I'd guess that 20 lbs of sand would give you a little less than an inch of sand at the bottom of the tank. For a Biocube, that's perfectly fine. You really don't need any more than that.

 

[FishyReef]

You can get an RO/DI unit from Bulk Reef Supply for around $130 - that will save you money in the long run, considering that distlled water from the grocery store is $1/g. You could also look into buying RO/DI water from your LFS - mine sells 5g for $2 which is cheaper than the $1 per gallon from the grocery store.

 

[little_fish]

Hello and Welcome!

I would pass on buying that live rock, there are only a few places I trust to get live rock from. Usually the other stuff arrives mostly dead with bad hitchhikers.

If I was you, i would buy most dry rocks at MarcoRocks Aquarium Products and the just one piece of live rock at a local LFS. That will save you a lot of money and I would bet it will also save you a few headaches as well.

 

[FishyReef]

Another thing - the test kit you mentioned, is that the API master reef test kit? If so, skip that one and get the API basic test kit instead. The reef kit doesn't have the "must-have" tests you need - namely ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH.

 

[Bifferwine]

Another thing - the test kit you mentioned, is that the API master test kit? If so, skip that one and get the API basic test kit instead. The master kit doesn't have the "must-have" tests you need - namely ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH.

Ahh good catch!

 

[mateysp]

"Easy and accurate saltwater test solutions for pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate"

That's what the description online says. It is the API Saltwater master test kit. Not the "Reef" Model.

So you guys all think dry rock would be best? That does seem a lot easier. So with that would you recommend I use that Bio-Spira? That seems to make the tank cycle a lot faster and with the dry rock what else would I have to cycle the tank with?

 

[Bifferwine]

I would still skip the Bio Spira. If you take a raw piece of shrimp from the grocery store and toss it in the tank, it will kick off your cycle.

And if the test kit has pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, that's what you want to get. :)

 

[mateysp]

When cycling (with the info I have found), I simply wait for an ammonia and then a nitrite spike correct? And then when I have all zeros, I am ready to go? Did I understand that correctly? How long should that process take if simply using a raw shrimp?

Would also still like to know if 25 pounds of dry rock is good and go out and buy 5 pound or so piece from my LFS?

If so, when should the live rock be added before, during, or after cycled?

 

[cvcdrk]

When cycling (with the info I have found), I simply wait for an ammonia and then a nitrite spike correct? And then when I have all zeros, I am ready to go? Did I understand that correctly? How long should that process take if simply using a raw shrimp?

Would also still like to know if 25 pounds of dry rock is good and go out and buy 5 pound or so piece from my LFS?

If so, when should the live rock be added before, during, or after cycled?

Every cycle is different but I would plan for about a month. Some are less, some are more....
But yes, that's all you need to do. Drop one piece of live rock in there to seed and then a whole table shrimp and just wait.

Yes that is enough rock. That's about 1lb per gallon. It definitely wouldn't hurt you to have more but that is the minimum. Remember, this is your primary source of filtration.

You should add the live rock when you add the dry rock. In fact, it should be out of water from the LFS as short a time as possible.

 

[Bifferwine]

Keep in mind, your nitrates will not go down on their own (ammonia and nitrites will). You will need to bring nitrates down via water changes. :)