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If you plan to have more hard corals, you will need to start testing for Calcium, Alkalinity and Magnesium as well. With your current livestock, I would not worry about these just yet.

I have the WP40 and even for a 100 gallon (long) the max speed is a bit too much. Also, the second generation controllers now have speed settings at fixed points, 100%, 75% and 50%. But this speed lock setting only affects mode "W1". If you choose any other modes, they will still ramp up to...

After a full day of running it at 100% speed, I decided to tone it down to 50% speed. The pump dislodged a few unglued corals and made a mess of a sandhill towards the right side of my tank. The pump was pointing completely horizontal and was about 1/3 of the way below the surface of the water...

Use those values as your starting point. Do not dose for a day, and see how much Ca, Alk, and Mg were reduced. Based on that, you can calculate how much you need to dose regularly in order to maintain your desired levels.

The white globs/cloud are normal if you dose the saturated solution directly into the tank. When I need to dose Alk, what I do is dilute the desired saturated amount with half a gallon of RODI water. This way I avoid the "alk snow" (which my clown tends to mistake for food). I then pour small...

According to the SaltyZoo calculator, 300ppm is 16.8dKH. That is pretty high for a reef tank. Typically 12dKH is considered the high limit for a reef tank. What are your calcium and magnesium levels?

Those do look like diatoms. They use the silicates which usually come with some types of dry sand and rock. Very little silicates are introduced via fish food, so the diatoms will eventually run out of food and die out.

Manual removal might be the most practical approach. Harvest them and make regular deliveries to your LFS for store credit :)

That is a pest species! Send it to me... I will handle proper disposal :) :) :) If you want precise cuts, you can score the underside with a dremel type tool and then break it apart by hand.

This is easily solved by proper design of the overflow and return lines. This is why you always use an overflow with a capacity that well exceeds the return pump's GPH. Or you you can shunt a portion of the return flow back to the sump to throttle down the return flow. A new alternative is to...

Did you mean the WP25 (Jebao)? If you are referring to the Vortech brand, they only come in MP10 and MP40. For that size tank, I would go with the WP25. The WP40 might be overkill for a 36gallon. And might be too bulky. Here is a rough comparison of the max/min GPH values of the two pumps...

A bit off-topic, do you need additional flooring support to keep larger tanks (100g and up) on upper floors? Or will standard home construction conventions support this much weight on a relatively small footprint? (Assuming the home was properly built)

Second update: I added a Jebao WP40 pump. Jebao WP40 in a 100 gallon (long) aquarium - YouTube Jebao WP40 Controller - YouTube All other circulation pumps have been turned off for this test. The return pump from the sump is still running. Current settings: Mode: W1 Speed: S1 Wave interval...

I have a couple of updates for my tank. The first update is I moved the lights higher so that I get more even coverage on the tank. I increased the LED intensities to compensate for the new distance. I have also started increasing LED intensity for blues and whites at about 10% per week and...

If the new saltwater matches the temperature and salinity of the tank water, then it would not cause any harm when you put the water directly into the tank. Just make sure you add it slowly so you do not cause massive waves in the tank when pouring and mess up your sand/rockwork. This is how I...

Yes you can introduce smaller amounts of fish food to maintain ammonia levels. Next time if the krill/fishfood looks yucky floating around in the tank, you can put it in a filter sock. Then set the filter sock in a high flow area or in the sump. This spreads ammonia just as effectively without...

They do look like sponges. They tend to hang around zoa colonies and attempt to take over when the conditions are right. Another possibility is that the zoas are reacting to too much light. How long have the zoas been in the tank? and how were they acclimated to the light?

I was gonna say, it looks like you had a conversation with Captain Phil Harris lol.

It could be molting so it is wiggling out of the old exoskeleton.

#1 The green macroalgae is halimeda . It is harmless for the most part. Very large specimens could be an issue as they take in calcium and could compete with corals. A few strands would not make any significant dent to calcium. They tend to get brittle and break apart too, so I would not worry...