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The cleaner wrasse specifically. It's not like a cleaner shrimp that cleans part time and eats other things. The majority of a cleaner wrasses diet is fish parasites, they generally do not adapt well to prepared foods. There are plenty of other types of wrasses that do very well on our tanks...

Going to have a very hard time keeping that fish long term. It looks like it was starving because its diet consists of fish parasites. They have a pretty terrible record of survival in captivity

Corals dont really matter as far as bio load goes, but I would not add them until after your cycle is complete. After that, it doesn't really matter

The Naso gets larger than an Achilles, and is a very poor stocking choice for even a 6 foot tank. I lost mine recently, and I think it was because he was cramped in my 180

A 90 is not going to be a good home for an Achillies. They need lots of space, and they would be an absolute terror in a 90

I don't see anything on the site, I assume its for the same 24x24 footprint as the a350

The A350 is rated to cover a 24x24 area. Since the Marineland 300 is 36 inches wide, you may have some coverage issues with a single fixture per 24x36 inch area. You may want to consider 2 fixtures per 24x36 inch area

Not that I am aware of. I have not seen a setup like that run for a reef tank. You'd be better off looking at T-5's. You'll find bulbs more easily, and they will come in a wider array of colors for dialing in the look of your tank.

Power compacts are an older lighting technology. They use more power than t-5 fixtures. In today's world of marine lighting I wouldn't even consider a PC setup

Are you talking the A150 or the A350?

There aren't any waterproof fixtures available for our hobby that I am aware of. The fixture should be suspended above the water and waterproofing shouldn't really be an issue

I dont think the profilux measures all of those on its own, there is no way I am aware of to automate things like a mag test with a controller. Dennis uses this site though, which is where the banner came from d2mini's Reeftastic Mixed Reef - Dashboard p1 Its pretty trick

Most controllers can use probes for temp, salinity, ph, and ORP

At that price point the only option I would recommend is a DIY setup. Some people will tell you to look into the various Chinese 'black box' fixtures but after the experience of several local reefers I know of I cannot personally recommend them

Are you planning on putting coral under these? I don't think they would be able to keep coral, they look more like accent lighting to me. 16 watts of led over 24 inches isn't very much

If price isn't an issue, the answer is the Radion Pros

You need to get a pump with an output that is close to the rating on your overflows. This way your overflows will be able to handle the water moved by your return pump For example, if you have two overflows rated at 600 GPH each, you would want a return pump rated for approximately 1200 gph...

I think it's because they get very large, and they are easily able to take fish that are kept with them, if I remember correctly, some have even taken clowns in captivity http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_6/volume_6_3/capranem.html

Never, never, NEVER restrict the intake to your return pump. Using a gate valve or a ball valve to restrict the OUTPUT of a return pump is okay

No, the bulbs you listed above will not be sufficient for coral