Time to plumb my sump..

• Jan 1, 2013

• #1

emily120289

Reefing newb

Okay heres a list of the equipment I have so far..

- 10g Sump
- Eshopps PF-300 Overflowbox (300GPH) 1'' bulkhead
- Reef Octopus NWB 150 Powered by 1 OTP 2000 pump at 500 gph
- Danner Magdrive supreme 5 return pump (500gph)


- 1'' Hard pvc piping
- (Drain line & Return line)
- x6 90 degree pvc elbow (allowing me to bring the lines where they need to be.. 2 elbows will be in my drain line 4 will be in my return.)



What else do I need here? are the numbers right? (gph) Any information will be helpful.. Ive never plumbed a sump before.. I find it a bit intimidating.

 

• Jan 1, 2013

• #2

emily120289

Reefing newb

Oh and my return line its approx. 4 ft from the return section back to the main display.

 

• Jan 1, 2013

• #3

Bifferwine

I am a girl

You should have a ball valve on the line after the return pump, in order to control the pump speed if needed. Don't forget PVC glue! :)

 

• Jan 1, 2013

• #4

M

monkiboy

Reefing newb

i'd get rid of those elbows and use some flexible PVC to reduce the multiple restrictions you have by using so many elbows. don't forget your quality check valves, cepex ball/gate valves, unions, etc. need to perform maintenance on all that stuff in the easiest way possible, make sure you don't flood your sump, leave enough room in your sump regardless for outage return siphon, etc.g'luck!

 

• Jan 1, 2013

• #5

Bifferwine

I am a girl

Oh and drill a hole at the water level in the return line to create a siphon break.

 

• Jan 1, 2013

• #6

Bifferwine

I am a girl

monkiboy said:

i'd get rid of those elbows and use some flexible PVC to reduce the multiple restrictions you have by using so many elbows. don't forget your quality check valves, cepex ball/gate valves, unions, etc. need to perform maintenance on all that stuff in the easiest way possible, make sure you don't flood your sump, leave enough room in your sump regardless for outage return siphon, etc.g'luck!

Click to expand...

Some people prefer flexible tubing for tank plumbing, but I personally have always preferred to use rigid PVC. It's easier to use in my opinion, and much cheaper. But whatever floats your boat!

 

• Jan 1, 2013

• #7

M

monkiboy

Reefing newb

i also prefer it because it does not resonate at much as rigid, especially with the connections off of the return pump, it's quite helpful keeping that hum dB down.

although, i prefer the finished "look" of rigid schedule 80. all up to you!

 

• Jan 2, 2013

• #8

emily120289

Reefing newb

thanks for the info.. now how do I attached my mag5 pump to the pvc?

 

• Jan 2, 2013

• #9

M

monkiboy

Reefing newb

emily120289 said:

thanks for the info.. now how do I attached my mag5 pump to the pvc?

Click to expand...

use a female adapter. like so: 1/2 in. PVC Schedule 40 Pressure Slip x FIPT Female Adapter-435-005HC at The Home Depot

threads onto the output of your mag 5 (1/2" MPT if i remember correctly) and slip fit for PVC on the opposite end.

if you're running a manifold like some do on here, then put the check valve upstream of it. you'll want gate/ball valve(s) near the pump for less messes with water and easy separation for maitenance on the pump.

post up if you have any other questions.

 

• Jan 2, 2013

• #10

emily120289

Reefing newb

I will be posting a diagram shortly on what my plan will look like, what I have in mind, and what I know thus far...

 

• Jan 2, 2013

• #11

emily120289

Reefing newb

Whats shown in the diagram is what I understand thus far... Please suggestions comments concerns, all is welcome. When it comes to plumbing I need a "Plumbing for dummies guide" lol ..

 

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• Jan 2, 2013

• #12

emily120289

Reefing newb

The words are a bit hard to read.. I can go into further detail about the diagram if needed.

 

• Jan 8, 2013

• #13

cubalz

Reefing newb

Don't forget unions. Second most important item to plan for besides ball valves.