Anyone ever use a programmable "basic stamp" for aquarium?

Ah mike gets it. Thanks mike. Yeah I was proceeding anyhow. Most projects I do have the entire or vast majority of people telling me not to. I was just asking if anyone had done it so I could compare what they accomplished and results with my intentions. I'm still skimming over the stamp manual. I've gotten to the point where I drive a servo motor.

Yeah I'm the type of person that has to know exactly how something works..and if I can have all the control over my system I could ever want for approximatly the same cost..I'm all over it.

Nice, that pulse width modulation will help when you start wanting to control your DIY LED project:mrgreen:

I fully understand why you would want to do this. Alot of times, people DIY just to DIY.

Not sure if you have one of these places around you, but I was just in one yeterday. Huge place they sell a ton of electronic components and also the basic stamp.

Fry's Home Electronics | Computer Parts & Accessories, Software, Games, TVs, Cameras - Frys.com

I'm stuck with radio shack or online order from mouser or digikey.

darn, every radio shack I have ever been in have been useless as tits on a bull.

I am saving up some money to get one of these. Probably the kit for 150 that has the two books and the electronic components. Seems like a good deal and would be real fun to pick that up again after being away from PIC's for so long. Should have never sold the development boards I had to the class below me...:frustrat:

I have a 7 slot allen bradley PLC laying in my basement i was considering using but its really huge and bulky. This is much more clean and simple other than you have to relay out... possibly twice any high voltage/ current switching.

The unit is indeed a lot of fun.

I did some programing on the allen bradly PLC, really good for doing what it needs to do, but theis basic stamp seems like a better fit for what you want to do

As for the relays, you could use a transistor to be able to switch a larger relay than what can be put out by the PIC.

I am wanting to get one of these to control a DIY LED light with some dimmable buckpucks that i would assume uses PWM to control the brightness. But gotta save up the money for it:mrgreen:

I'm going to post tomorrow how to DIY an LED driver. They are pretty easy and not all that expensive. The one I made you can dim control with a POT or digital POT . a 6 up to 40v power supply. A 3 terminal ic for current regulation and an pot or resistor to set the current output. I also know how to turn a computer power supply that is often free from broken computers or cheap if you got one laying around into a solid 12v power supply. you just have to jump a pin or two to get it to run with out a motherboard attached. The spare one I had around the house was 40amps a 12 volt. The IC and pot at radio shack are like 2-3$ the IC is like 50 cents or less.

Here are the pictures i'm going to use in the DIY LED driver post.

I won't be making that post today. I had a fishtastrophy. My takifugu puffer ate 2" off my girlfriends 8" jawfish(bigger than the puffer). She basicly said either I donate the puffer to the LFS or shes going to get rid of it other ways. So I have to deal with a probably dieing jawfish and getting rid of my beloved takifugu puffer. I already had stuff in the tank for fin rot..so maybe that will stave off infection. the jawfish seems active..but obviously can't swim quite right. He's missing an awful lot of fish..

What kind of amperage can that put out though? The LEDs I am thinking about using draw 1 amp and the 20 dollar driver can drive 6 of them. Based off of this write up. DIY LEDs - The write-up - Reef Central Online Community

The little LED's dont give off enough light to be usefull over a coral tank.

Max output current of 1.5A the lm338 will do 5 amps. The lm317 has a max dissipation of 15 watts and probably need a heatsink at that. Dissipation is figured like this.
(Vin-Vout) X current.

So if you keep the input to output voltage differential low you'll be fine. If you need 1 amp then maximum input to ouput voltage differential should be 15 volts. If you run a 12 volt supply and use 9 volts @ 1 amp of it then your only looking at a dissipation of 3 watts wich the IC would be more than happy to deal with.

You can get the IC's cheap at mouser.com, digikey, and ebay sells them in large lots. The resistor you need cost is neglible. If you happen to have a 24v power supply you can run 5 or 6 off one lm317. The cost beyond the IC and resistor is up to you. You can do it cheap and just solder the bits together. You can fix them down to a solderless breadboard and maybe use some glue to keep them inplace, or you can get a solder breadboard and do it up like that..you cango the extra mile and learn how to etch your own PCB's. Its all up to you.

Here is the calculator to get the correct resistor for the amperage you want.
http://www.reuk.co.uk/LM317-Current-Calculator.htm

Might have to look into the lm317. I do have a 12v 20 amp power supply in the storage unit. I would probably just get a salder board to do it. I would definantly need to freshen up on my circuit building for this project :mrgreen: