R.I.P. little buddy.....

Due to very unfortunate cicumstances,ICK got introduced to myDT(some have read my other thread in fish disease).....First loss,Mimic/Chocolate tang..I'm bummed,had the guy for almost 2 years.I'm now setting up a 75 hospital for everyone else.I will not live with ICK!Those who do, i applaude you and wish you luck.I made a new thread here to hopefully get more people to understand ICK is avoidable,and can be harmful.There is a great link(a must read)... from ccCapt in fish disease under my thread: ick in DT
I do have a question or two
1. Can i just fill the 75 with my DT water,or is the water itself infested?
2.If i need to fill with new,does'nt it have to mix for 24-36 hours?(i don't want to wait)
3.I need the heater from my DT to heat the 75,will the LR in DT be OK at chilly temps?
4.This is going to be a PITA,but for me its worth it.(i know ,not a question)
5.Thanks everyone

Sorry to hear of your loss. It's likely that the tang was too unhealthy to have survived the QT too. This ICK outbreak is unfortunate to say the least, but it seems like you probably would have lost the tang either way, so don't let the loss of this fish get the better of you. I sincerely hope your others pull through!
1. Since you will be treating to kill the parasite anyways, I cannot see that it would matter if you use some of the DT water
2. Anytime you make new SW it needs to mix for a minimum of 24 hours. Especially in these circumstances, where your fish are already stressed, it would be a mistake to place them in water that might burn their gills.
3. I just ran into this same heater issue, I needed the good titanium heater in both my sump and display (read my build thread for more on that), but didn't want to drop the cash for a temporary need. The solution: Petsmart has their brand, Top Fin, 150w heater on sale for $20. Go get it. It's a crappy heater, but it will do the trick for your temporary need. If water gets cold you can end up with a bacteria or algae outbreak, not to mention that your LR could suffer and any inverts you keep in the DT will surely perish.
4. I feel for you! Regardless of the way that you are choosing to deal with the ICK, perhaps the best thing you can do for your fish is to get the eating the most healthy food possible. Load them up with Garlic and Vitamin C. They need to be healthy to survive this extra stress...

Good Luck!

that sucks that they died.

Thanks man.I will go out and get the heater.I still do not know which copper trearment is best??
As far as food,those little guys are spoiled IMO,they get Mega marine algae,mega marine angle,seaweed selects,spinach,spirulina,zucchini,romain,squid,mysis,kryll,scallop,and table shrimp! :D
Just the tang so far ,has died.

cupermen(sp) is a good one any copper med is good as long as the bottle does not say reef safe on it

The med that James suggested is probably the best there for ICK.
Hate to hear about your fish.

Sorry about your Tang OhNoNemo. It sucks even more when you have had it that long. I hope the others make it. :(

Sorry to hear that your poor fishy died. but i otally understand had that issue in our 90 gal a while back but kept it empty then reintroduced the fish when we got our 210 set up:D

Thanks everyone.I'll be filling the 75 soon,first i need to get a heater and the meds,then i'll let you all know how things progress.
I think,even if i lose more fish,this is the best way to do it(for me anyway).Just knowing i once had a disease free, prestine DT,makes me feel like i must accomplish that again. .........We do get alittle attached to our fish,my tang was great,and i loved watching him change to his adult colors,and he will be missed,but i will probably get another one.Oh,and my wife promises to never get me another surprise again.JK,she does feel bad and i feel bad that she feels bad........
The story continues..............

So sorry. Your tang was a beauty. :(

Make sure you get the right test kit for the med you decide to use.
If you use Cupramine, you need a test kit for non-chelated copper. A Seachem copper test kit is for non-chelated copper.
If you use CopperSafe, get a test kit for chelated copper. The API copper test kits works for chelated copper.

Bummer, Nemo :( It sucks even more cuz you had him so long.

Hey everyone,I did the transfer last night,and woke up to find everyone doing fine.They ate breakfast and seem to be OK:D...After alittle more reading,I think I may do hypo instead.I already put LR from QT and bought more base to make caves and they all have picked their spots out.So since they are going to be in there for weeks,i may as well make them feel at home.I will keep you updated as the weeks go on.
Thanks everyone
Note: changed my avatar to when my tang was full of life and lovin it!:D

Good news! Thanks for the update.

I am glad they seem to be doing well!

Good news. Great Avatar in honor of him. He was beautiful.

Its good to know your other fish made the transfer alright.
Since your going to be treating them with hyposalinity,you'll need to watch for ammonia in your QT.All the inverts and pods that live on and in the rock will die when the salinity gets to low for them.

Thanks everyone.Thanks dc,i just wish i could have seen him fully change.I think i'll look for a sub-adult next time,rather than a juvi.Pretty sure i want another one.
What would be the best way to avoid an ammonia spike?Also should i start hypo now,or wait a few days to let them really settle back in?Oh,and i assume its best to leave the DT up and running as normal right?Even though now i just have a giant pile of LR scattered all about:lol:

If it was me,I think I would put the live rock back in the display and maybe get some of the fake plastic rock for the QT.Then you wouldn't have to worry about the cryptic life in the suffering from the hypo.That and water changes would help with the ammonia I think.
I'd also give the fish a day or 2 to adjust to the QT before I started lowering the salinity.That way you dont completely shock them.And yeah,just take care of the display like your fish were still in it.